Consider this, there will be 1/4" x 6 being fed by 1/2" and then feeding 1/2". There should be plenty of flow with lots of exposure between medium and heat source.

Very cool! Let us know how well that works. It seems like a good idea...

Thomas

Design on the throttle assembly is progressing well. Lots of stuff needing to be designed around. Probably finish this up tomorrow.

Some more theory on the heater setup.

Approx V of the capillary system = 2.3L

Approx V of send and return lines = 3.7L

38% of known volume exposed to heat at any moment.

Volume of the core is yet unknown.

Sometimes I get a feeling of Zen when working on the bus. Since I am creating things the did not exists in the form I needed them it, it often feels like I am actually discovering a design that existed, but I just had to see where it was and make it.

I particularly got this feeling with the mounting of the thermotimeswitch and last night with the throttle assembly. One bolt goes to a hole already in the throttle body, the base plate keeps it from rotating. The needs of the design were satisfied by a simple piece of 1/4" steel that was drilled, tapped, and notched. Not fancy, but perfect.

Yet more of pulling designs from the ether. Lower throttle assembly.

Izit running yet ?

Well, here come the excuses, my Suby stole 1.5 days from me this weekend Then, while working on it today some guys approached and asked if I could do some work on their 75 CB360.

The throttle is almost perfect. The ratio is off and the TB is not opening all of the way so I need to recalculate that. If that goes well, I will address this tomorrow, install the tins, wiring, turn the key and :bomb:

Nice little bike

I was also curious as to how you were going to work out the copper wire/header expansion and the gap, and also the flow. Looks like you've got it worked out.

Can't wait to see/hear it running.

Damn it Damn it Damn it

Spent another few hours on the damn throttle cable design. I changed some parameters, welded up the throttle linkage off of the throttle body to allow for more adjustment in position of where the cable hooks in, and after all of that........the damn thing still does not function correctly. It will not open all the way until pushed by hand, the pedal feels real bad, then it wont close all the way. The weak link, after all the adjustments have been done? The cable from the tranz to the TB. I tried to use a bicycle brake cable, it is not going to work as there is no teflon lining and it is not built for this application. So, I need to either locate a cable that will work, or start to fabricate another rod control system like the one that worked so well on the last setup

Not working on it tomorrow or wed, but Thurs through the weekend should be productive now that I know what is going on.

Li'l Monty is counting on ya Doc

Wait, what...bicycle brake cable for your throttle linkage?
Your gonna be a Dad! You have to start taking the safe course through life now.
You don't want a sticking throttle cable. Spend some of those Doctor Dollars!

Working on sourcing some motorcycle throttle and clutch cables. These should be more up to the task. I cant believe the others failed so badly.

RTV much ?

No safety wire on those bolts? Gitterdone

OK, I met a local guy, my age, that has a sweet collection of parts and vintage bikes to include BSA, Ducati, Honda. He gave me some cables to try and one was perfect. I spent some hours futzing with trying to get the measurements correct....this did not work. What I ended up doing was putting another return spring on the transmission arm, and bending the stop on the gas pedal so that I could get more movement. This worked to solve all problems Tomorrow looks to be a day for completion and hopefuly some triumph.

Click to view attachment

Another(smaller) Triumph

Wrong thread bozos.

Good progress today. I had to take a break from the heat and took Noel on a ride, but then I returned and sorted out some of the wiring. I have the WUR, and AAR wired up. Tomorrow I will get the CSV and TTS hooked up.

To do list for tomorrow:
- CSV-TTS wiring
- Fuel pump wiring
- Send and return fuel hose
- Install inlet for crank vent into air housing
- Find my oil temp sensor and install it (no idea where it went)
- Install the rest of tin
- Vac hose for transmission
- Install trans filler neck
- Exhaust

About then I should be able to turn the key (oil, gas and trans fluid of course).

You go doc. Don't forget the lubricant.

So far today is a bust. I would do better putting a hull on the damn thing with the rain and thunderstorms rolling through constantly

I think I may have to abandon this being done by Matt's party/my vacation. I leave town Wed night...

Anyone have an oil temp sender? I cant find the one I had and I need it to finish up the bus.

Looking into this one:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...ode=VDO-323-055

Been distracting myself with motorcycle stuff lately. I needed a break from the bus as it was starting to not be fun. Now, winter is closing in and even if I do get it running, which I will, it will not be able to be driven without heat and defrost. So, I am now planning on buying a Propex heater for it. In the long run, this will make things better as I can drive whenever and do not have to divert time into my wacky heater design. This will not be cheap, though.

Here is the plan:
- 30lb horizontal propane tank in enclosed storage on floor against drivers wall in passenger area. I have checked into this and it only needs to be secured from moving, enclosed, and have a 4x4" vent to the outside in the floor in case of leak.
- Propex HS2800 for approx 9700 BTU
- Bilge fan for forcing air into/out of the heater so the air will travel through the bus' plumbing.

I plan to mount the heater in the bench seat like here:

The propane canister is steel and measures 12.2"x 23.4" and stands 13" high.

What's the cost difference between those and the espar petrol heaters?
Would be nice not to need another fuel source in the bus

Looking into the Espar heaters, I see more price and not much benefit. Propane is efficient and largely cheaper and will not effect my travel range. At $4/gal for gas, and living in natural gas territory, I am leaning towards propane. Also, I can use the tank to run grills at camp outs so another bonus.

Cost I am finding:
- Tank = $153
- Heater = $830
- Bilge blower = $25

Here is a Espar D4 install. The D4 is $1820.

I have the smaller one in my 914,.....everyone will tell you that you are going to blow up....



Gasoline heater way scary...

Link to a full kit for the bus from UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Type2-Propex-...d5caaee#vi-desc

I am also debating whether or not to use an Atwood Hydro Flame furnace as they are cheaper. Not a lot of data on their CFM and such, and I know they are 75% efficient vs the 91% of the Propex.

Did you start this thing yet?

I would add a marine CO detector also = 65$

Why "marine"? CO is CO. Oh, it is not CO2, that would go off often

Regular home CO detector = $5-15

Oh yeah, CO. You know what I meant.
Marine and RV detectors are calibrated differently (I'm guessing for smaller ppm for smaller confined spaces) . They are 12 volt. They are designed to handle extreme temperatures - your car could go from 110 to 0 degrees seasonally. And they are designed to stand up to excess vibration as you navigate the roads in Pittsburgh. Finally they won't go off when you fart.
Not the place to save a few $$$

Well, considering that gas heaters are used in vehicles of all types without these meters, I am not too concerned. The stock set up of air being blown over your exhaust pipes is more deadly

hum, I still like the idea of the oil, heater idea...

:-)

--brett

Don't worry about heat. Iffin it don't run you don't need heat. Lesson yer movin into that thing en parkin it down by the river!

The nice thing about the Propex is you can get a timer and a thermostat and it can run continuos= warm bus in the morning.
my 914 stays warm all day and night.
BTW the importer USA is in Maryland. mine worked and quit, Karl sent me the capacitor and told what to do ,worked great ever since.
http://westyventures.com/index.html

Here is another option I have in a 914-6 (big alternator)
works good but motor must be running (High amp draw)
Also when its on its making heat. (no purge cycle etc, )
http://dcthermal.com/catalog/12-volt-ducted-heaters

Ooo, that electric one is interesting I have a BN4 already as well. I hope to tackle the last "running" things this weekend. I am just looking ahead to the fact that it is too cold to ride my motorcycle, so I need heat in my car.

It is now time to start working on getting the beast back on the street. One major stumbling block for me so far is the damn oil temp sensor placement.

I have male AN-10 coming out of the engine into the hose going to the cooler up front. In the previous iteration of using an oil heated manifold I had an easy place to put the sensor. Currently I do not. I was using a VDO 323-055 as it went with my gauge.

If I am to use this same sensor, which is M14x1.5, I need to find a way to insert this into the out flow circuit.

The only thing that I could find was an adapter that has male AN10 on one end, female on the other, and a 1/8NPT port in the middle. I can use a male 1/8NPT to M14 adapter (maybe, not sure it would exactly fit). However, if I can find another sender maybe this will work better?

Ideas?

I found this as a possible option. It does not protrude into the oil stream:
1H0919563, it is a VW/Audi/etc part. It is VDO and has the same 300F and 322-18 ohm range as the VDO 323-055. It is an M10x1.0.

This would be very good if I could find an adapter that was AN 10F - AN10M and had the ability to be drilled and tapped. I dont think that the 1/8NPT can be tapped out to M10x1.0.

Next thought, maybe an adapter to convert the male AN10 output to metric, and then back again so I can fabricate a block to go between the adapters that would take my temp sender?

Earls makes a tee with three female AN10 openings. You could fit a AN10 male to one opening and try and find a An10 to M14 x 1.5 for the third.



Earls Tee

I think that I am going to go with the build my own adapter approach.

I already have the metric male to AN male so all I need is the metric female to metric male and a piece of aluminum to drill out.

gonna be fun.

Its always good to measure. I am actually using AN12 (doh).

Alright, plans are in place:

AN12 male --> 3/4 NPT male --> Aluminum block with hole drilled in it for temp sensor --> 3/4 NPT male --> AN12 Female

The only change to the original idea is that I will be using the M14x1.5 sensor now that I can make the adapter any size I want. I am going to drill out a 1.25x1.5x2" block, off side so that the center bore is offset to leave room for the 1/2" long sensor The tip is better on the 055 as well because it is smaller dia than the sensor itself and will allow oil to flow around the whole sensor tip for an expected more accurate reading. Either way, I already had one

Taps, drill bits, and Al on the way. The trannywagon needs to move to the new house under its own power and we start to move May15 and finish June14. I will actively start working on the trannywagon April 22. Tight schedule, stay tuned.