Webers with intakes for under 500.00 ?

I had a buss with a corvair

Uh, no. 2bbl Holley. No luck with borrowing webers, and you sold the set I traded you.

Quoted here for Scotty B ADHD.....cant keep up. Always having to slow the rest of the class down to let him catch up...

Did you like it? Parameters?

Nah, just one

now I am slow.....why the pic I am laughing at no show in quote???

It was reverse rotation... could pull the Queen Mary to 50 mph, belt probs was the ultimate demise. Wish it had the corvair trans. Was my first driver in high school all kind a second gear if you could find it

I got this one up to 100mph.....once. I had a 3.27 r/p in it. It would drag in 2nd up to about 70 and then, all of the sudden, throw you back in your seat and accelerate at a frightening rate. Not comfy above 70. Acts like a sail.

Now, I put in the stock 3.55, the PG is rebuilt, and I have posi. It drives OK, but the CIS system I designed stopped working so well. It went from needing a fine tune to only running at 3krpm. Stopping sucks as if it dies, you are not guaranteed it will restart.

I am definitely switching to a carb for the mean time.

If you have an intake why not use this? http://www.summitracing.com/search/product...agement-systems

Self tunes as you drive. No drama.

Freaky cool, but the 4bbl or 2bbl is intended to be a temporary measure to get the bus to the next location. $xxxx is too much for a temp measure. I will get my frankenCIS to work. I WILL.....just not anytime soon. I dont mean like Scotty B project anytime soon. I will get it done way sooner than any of his stuff

Deleted

Well, if you cant say anything nice....

Now, not that I intend to keep the cab on for a prolonged amount of time, but the event of down tube icing and the issues it plays with fuel suspension sounds like a problem for my shadetree mechanic skills. As such, I was wondering about maybe wrapping the runners with NiChrome wire to heat the top parts, at least. This would be more complete than just heating the mount for the carb. I figure the heads would heat up the bottom half of the runners and the wire could do the rest. Keeping the air charge at a better temp to keep the junk from freezing up and dropping fuel out of solution.

Here is one site with some parameters:
http://www.wiretron.com/nicrdat.html

Need to see, but I anticipate a pretty low current draw of <3A

really ? Are you fuggin serious ? Put the damned carb on it and drive the P.O.S. You're living in Ohiohwa, not Minnahsohtah. Yern't gun be havin no icerin problems

Oh thank you Scottchcandyman. I like to think about solutions to problems. Probably about to spring on an Edelbrock 500 (1403) as was recommended by the corvair guys and is the cheapest solution.

You're thinking about a solution to a problem you think you may have that you more than likely won't. Why would you have " icing " issues ? You've built a flat 6 and stuffed it into a shoebox. You'll have more than enough heat generated in there to keep the runners warm.






And no that doesn't mean you now need to worry about heat soak or boiling the gas. It's the absolute perfect environment for a carb. Especially an Edelbrock 500 Most brilliant idea you've had yet. Congrats

Really? Thanks

So, I have yanked the FI except for the fuel pump assembly which I will get to when I have the other pump in place. I mocked up the manifold and the bolt holes line up exactly opposite to the ones that I used for the FI manifold. However, there are holes at the new locations as well since the manifold came with the heads. No biggie. I took the manifold home and made gaskets and studs to place in the head. Bolts are not gonna work as access is not good under the down tubes. Luckily, I have hesitated to pack certain tools in my shop so I could accomplish this task.

For the fill tube on the tranz I decided to just use a hose to couple the old to the new. No need to weld or source the proper sized tubing, which I dont have time for. The good news is that the new braided stainless tube is terminated in an standard coupling that allows me to shorten the hose and screw the coupling back in. So, that is looking good for fixing my leaky hose on the tranz fill. I need to fill the tranz pan to get a volume of fluid to use. I have been guessing....wrong I think.

I may just get this fucking thing running by move time.

The last thing will be the throttle cable/linkage setup. Not sure how this will go.

Finally, some good news! It is alive! The advice to get an Eddlebrock due to cost and ease of operation turned out to be great advice. I literally installed it, fabbed up a throttle cable set up, and turned the key. The attached video is the first drive without any adjustment, first time out of the barn in 3 yrs, first time driving under its own power since 2013. Changed the crappy, incorrect roller rockers for stock rockers and it runs smooth and steady. Altogether, a much better running engine. I still have the chirp in the tranz when in gear. I have a few thoughts, not sure, I will continue to dig into it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltzLR8AVp6E

Sounds awesome! Glad to see it on the road.

You have showed your lack of knowledge...safest van ever built try researching ok ...

Sweet. Nice to see it moving! It looks like those power glide's need adjustment of the band or bands occasionally. Maybe that will stop the chirping.

Hey are those rims oversized? I just picked up some 15x7's for my Vanagon. Just pulled the TINY engine out of it. No idea what will go in its place yet.

Chris, care to elaborate on the chirping? Band adjust? There is only one. Yes, custom over sized wheels from Bus Depot when they had them.

Hope you replaced those fuel lines.

Last time you were here you drove the bus, just before you were going to leave I noticed a slight leak and made you put the bus on the hoist. Had to do a emergency fuel line repair, you would have had a nice bonfire on the way home.
I told you then to replace the fuel lines when you got home...you did right?

I know very little about powerglides but I remember hearing this before.. found the doc linked below that specifically describes chatter in reverse and low gear. Take a look and maybe it will help. (Don't worry that the doc downloads immediately...it's a PDF of an OLD manual.

poweglide PDF

See the first page which describes some common issues then skip to page 305.

Rock on, Chris! Thanks.

Mark, I don't recall a leak, but I did put the beast on your lift to inspect before departing and we found that fuel injection line that couldn't handle the high pressure and was sausaged, that your wife drove long distance to get a replacement for. The current system is carbed so 2.5psi, not 70+. All new lines and everything.

Ok, Im back on messing with this Damn Bus. Admins, I would not bitch (like it would matter ) if this thread got moved to the sandbox. Tolerance for no-914 stuff has changed since this thread started in 2008 (a friggen decade!).

Anyway, I had the bus running, did pretty well last year, towed a trailer full of mini bikes and was fully loaded with stuff, freeway, 75mph and passing cars. The "rebuilt" powerglide that I bought back in 2013 in a rush to get the bus moving under its own power when I was moving has started messing up with me needing to actively switch the gears. I could re build it, I have another one in a container almost done, but I am asking myself, "WHY?" I do love the corvair engine and the PG trans in the bus. It is kick ass, but I dont live in CA anymore and I only really want to drive it during a few weeks of spring and fall due to no heat and no A/C. Cant see out the window when it is foggy and cant really do anything about it. Sooooo, time for a change.

I have started making payments on a conversion kit to raise a Subaru SVX engine into the beast. I am keeping it automatic, which meant finding an 090 VW auto box for it. That was actually harder than I anticipated and if not for contacts I would not have much of a chance for under $3K+. As I type this, my good friend is driving to SC to pick one up from an elderly gentleman that had rebuilt it a year and a half ago and then his vision went. I got this guys contact from another bus guy I know online. Networking rocks! Price is right, too. So far for engine and trans+ torque converter, I am due to be out $2250. It will be nice to have reliable power, ac and heat.

Yes, I get that this basically turns the bus into a glorified mini van, and me into a pseudo soccer mom, but I dont care. It will still rock.

Now, I am not sure what to do with the corvair powerplant. Sell or store??? Hmm.

SVX engine in a bus rocks! Will the VW AT hold up to the hp and torque? What about the gearing? When I converted the syncro mt in my Westy, I went taller in both 3rd and 4th to take advantage of the power. Very glad i did that.

The trany should be fine. The VW does have a 3 geared planetary and I wanted to source a auto section from an Audi 5000T as it has a 4 geared planetary that just swaps in, and some other good stuff. The price of the rebuilt box was too good to pass up and I havent found an Audi box yet. As for the gearing, I had wondered about that as well, but I do have a lifted bus with wider wheels so I am hoping that will help. Maybe I will get board and go standard some day. Probably not.

Closer. Heart of the beast is now in my shop on a stand. I can’t touch it until I finish my current back log of transmission work. The conversion kit arrived this Sat. Pics to come. Just finished the wall and some electrical so I can have a shop to work in at new house. Still need to install the mini split.

Very cool engine choice!

John

You won't regret going with a Suby 6 although my preference is the newer series. Regardless, it will be a quantum leap in power and reliability. I passed one on the Ortega hi way once we hit a straight bit of road. I eased around thinking it was a stock van when he punched it which caught me by surprise. I put my foot into it then shot around him and from the look on his face he had believed a stock 914 was attempting to pass him. I think we were both surprised.

We had an SVX and it was a blast to drive. I can't imagine that in a 914...

I seem to remember that 3200 was 100mph.

The timing belt was recommended to be changed somewhere around 60>75k
easier to do it with the engine out and on the stand.

Spark plugs were also a bitch to change in that car.

$500 for a car with a running engine. $200 for an MT5 out of a totaled bug eye. Normal part prices for all the other stuff. Can’t beat it.

Engine cost me $400. A good deal for what I got. Plan is to do at least a top end, but may go deeper depending on availability, need, cost of parts. The kit to mount it into the bus showed up this weekend. Worth the money. Now I need to finish building my garage shop and the transmissions lined up. Hope is to drive this to Mid OH in July with a completed BMW project. Aspirations

Consequently, anyone with a line on an audi 5000T transmission, I want some of the guts. I have a rebuilt VW auto that will be used with this, not sure ifninternals were beefed up or not.

That's a good deal. Did you get the wiring harness/ECU by chance or are you going aftermarket? There are a number of EG33 conversions on The Samba for Vanagons
which might give you some ideas...this one is REALLY detailed:

SVX Vanagon

Also check out the Busaru Youtube channel. He's done a ton of conversions including a belly pan style radiator that looks like it works pretty well (laying flat underneath the bus)

Busaru

PM me if you need any help. I think I have the wiring pinouts memorized .

forget the car, post pictures of the mini split....

I decided to enjoy a time in my life when I have more money than time, so I bought a full conversion kit from David White at SubiSwaps in El Cajon, CA. Super nice guy and the kit is complete including heater. All arrived, I have t had time to get it completely evaluated. It comes with the wiring harness. It comes with ECU, too.
https://www.subiswaps.com/product-page/suba...it-yourself-kit

Interesting...that's one offer I was not aware of. Definitely worth the $ to have everything you need.

Anyone who has done a conversion knows this quote from the website is 100% true:

"This kit will save you at least 200 hours of trying to figure out what works and what doesn't."

So, I recon an update is to be made. I paid the money to SubiSwaps for the kit to drop in the SVX motor. I paid last Dec, got some boxes of stuff, nothing to spectacular, the big ticket special items were pending like the brain, harness, and exhaust. Next thing I know, no answers. Trying weekly. Then I get an email about a month ago that they are going out of business by Dec. A little panicked. Dave White, the owner, seemed like a stand up guy and the email said that all customers that paid will have their orders satisfied. It was a group message, tho. Here is to hoping he stays a stand up guy and I get the parts I really need and not the stuff I could have easily sourced myself, only.

That was almost a year ago! You should have received your complete order by now. get on the horn!

Bummer.....FYI just in case, I have a couple of extra ECUs, and I MIGHT know where to find a complete SVX wiring harness. It's been about a year but the guy might still have it. The exhaust is pretty easy to figure out. Do you happen to know what parts you DID get? Adapter plates, engine mounts, etc?