sweet!

PM SENT!

Any idea how much all that open space weighs?

Dana,

lars in boulder just bought his first teener
the longs are rusted, the hell hole is bad, and I think some of his pick up points are questionable...

if no one claims the rear xtra, I would like to claim it for him to use

brant

Just missed it, Mugsy has dibs. Stay tuned for more goodies!

Every time I hit this thread, I am amazed over and over and over...

No problem
if he changes his mind, let me know
I am 4 miles from you and can bring a pick up truck at any time
brant

Pretty soon people are going to stop building 914-6 clones and start building Anklebiter clones!

Dana,

Be sure to get the weight on that beast for comparison. You've gotta be close to 2000lbs or less.

You know a 914 is close to 2000lbs stock right?

I'd bet Dana is around 1,400lbs

Thanks again....here is the autograph.


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Way cool!

Today I broke down the car into its bare tub and rear chassis. I was surprised it only took a couple hours to pull the suspension, brake the car in half, and pull the engine.
With the extra time I gained I started stripping the remaining stock paint off of the tub in preparation for a couple coats of chassis primer and paint.
I like having a project you can lift onto jackstands with one hand...

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Damn that looks good!
Nice work

Bob

He he he

Amazing as always Dana. You could always just pack up the Anklebiter and take it to PA as carry-on luggage.

Can't wait to see this in paint

Mee too, but part of me almost hates to see the metal get covered with color instead of clear. Always loved the clean metal look.

Great stuff Dana.

I woke up this morning and found out my thread had gained almost 5000 hits overnight!
It turns out build-threads.com ran a feature on this build. Follow the link to check it out, along with a ton of other really cool projects!

VERY cool. you deserve it

Thats Awesome Dana

Congratts !!

Crap Dana.

Please say "No" to Chip Foose when he calls, at least till you finish your Masters

Awesome coverage...

Dave

This morning I tackled the under side of the tub. Using every jack, jackstand, and a system of levers and pulleys I got the tub resting on its side with minimal "sketchiness".
To lower the murphie's law factor I anchored the tub to the I-Beams holding up the rafters. It is actually pretty solid and makes working on the belly of the car really nice.
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I started out by stripping off all of the old paint, then welded up the forty or so holes I had drilled in the floor to mount the old water lines and after market rockers.
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Finally I sprayed on the first coat of primer. I am using the Eastwood chassis black paint system, I used it on a couple cars when I worked at Renegade, it is tough as nails and looks pretty good too. After this first coat I will apply a second coat of primer, then 2 finish coats of satin black.
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I think you should make a mold of that tub as is in preparation for making copies out of carbon fiber...hmmmmmm.....just saying.


Nice work Dana...Sure isn't the same car I rode in nearly 7 years ago.

Ed

That alone is a weekend for most people! How do you do it?

Did you clone yourself? I am fairly certain that if anyone on this board could, it would be you

Please make this the East Coast debut of the Anklebiter!

Just realized you'll be out here in time for it.

You're right! I doubt the car will make it but I should be able to!

I prepped and primed the tub and the rear tube frame today. Paint goes on tomorrow!
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I'm super pumped for you Dana!

rockin! spectacular work Dana.

It's tomorrow.

Satin black chassis paint is on! I found it sprays the best reduced by about 20%, I put on 2 light coats and got the coverage I was looking for.
I turned the heater in the garage up as far as it goes and will leave it to bake overnight.
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Awesome!

Sorry Dana, I can't resist...















































That'll buff out!

I did a bunch of little tasks to get the engine ready to install.
First I replaced my thoroughly melted clutch and reinstalled my freshly turned flywheel.
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Then I installed a new Perrin light weight pulley, this took 3lbs 8.8oz off of the rotating mass of my engine, that aught to change it's revving characteristics!
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Next I installed the rear piece to the JWest shift linkage.
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Finally I mounted the rear tube chassis to the drivetrain. I even miraculously avoided scratching the new paint!
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Being a Suby guy I would keep the factory one on it works as a great harmonic balancer, for the little differance you feel from the Perrin it's not worth the relaibility issue's you "WILL" have. Even with a B & B engine I still think the factory one is the best option. I know it's really easy way to drop some weight especially on a rotating mass but sometimes weight can be a benefit.

I have read though your whole thread and love everything you have done and wish I had the dedication and know how to do the things you are doing.

Cheers,
Marlon

Might putting something like this in my Teener was in my 07 Ltd STi. Built short block, TVG deleats, meth injection, AP2 engine managment, 380 WHP

Yeah, I have read the thousands of arguments on nasioc.com Here is a good one regarding the aftermarket pulleys, some guys (myself included) are of the opinion that they are safe to use, some guys think the engine will grenade if you remove the stock one. I have a couple friends with over 50k miles on their pulleys without experiencing problems, hopefully I will be as lucky as they have been. I figure I will try this one out and if I am not happy with it I can always swap back, thanks for the advice!

Less rotating mass is cool to a point. My rotary setup has a lightened flywheel. It gets a little "jumpy" at low speed low throttle driving. A heavier flywheel would help prevent this but would make the wind up slower.

There are pros and cons to rotating mass, especially when our cars are so light...

I think this is one of the components that I will just have to wait until the R&D portion of the build to see if I like it.
Right now I am sticking to the theory that lighter is better, if my driving experience starts to tell me otherwise I will reevaluate.

You will know real quick if its causing a balance issue and it will only grenade if you then choose to ignore it. IMHO

i saw all the pieces disassembled and thought the exact same thing!

I beg to differ about the pulley. I have a lighweight COBB Performance pulley on my '73 914/2003 WRX conversion with 25k on it (the engine has 58k now). No problems and it hasn't been pampered in terms of how I run it.

Ed

I just got through going over your build, very impressive. I am in the process of building a tube chassis based on a914 drivetrain for a landspeed buggy and I find your ideas for the rear setup of your car to be very helpful for what I am doing. Thank you for being so talented and detailed with your build. Can't wait to see what you do next.

It's not the longetivity of the pulley that is the question. The oil pump is right behind the pulley. The balancer is there to smooth out the revolutions. ATI, check out their faqs. Most suby beginners crater a motor from many different things, mostly thinking the oil level is good between changes because it aways was in the na honda they dogged before the wrx they moved on to. Subys are a different motor entirely and were originally meant for under 7k operation in the snow but the engineers didn't cut the cost of the motor by using a solid light weight pulley, wonder why? Most hard hotrodded subys don't make it far enough to find out if the lightweight pully helped cause the destruction. Some people even have cel issues from lightweight flywheels at idle.

Unabomber only writes what he reads, he is not a engine builder or a mechanic. All you need to do is look at a suby stock balancer and you will see the rubber and metal parts of a balancer built to try and smooth hormonics out, but like most oem stuff it's really only designed to smooth it out where the normal guy uses the motor, not at the rpms a high reving hotrodder uses. Thats why nascar uses ATI balancers. You think they aren't looking for every hp they can find?

I guess light pulleys do look better than a stock hormonic balancer though.

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That is one awesome 914! Congratulations for your vision and your skills.

New Background... Check.

Dana

Always like your style, form and fabrication skills.

Without going back on your entire thread what did you do in the highlighed area to beef up the area where the lower tube ties into the remaining uni-body? I see that plate that drops down .. just wondering whats behind it. Is it tied into another tube or boxed in? The angle of the pic's gets my brain wandering.