I traced the openings individually, and got out my trusty jig saw.

Then some sanding to get a precise fit.

Glued in place. I will test the bond tomorrow. And then search for a good custom upholstery shop.

Thanks for posting the trailing arm procedure. I have a set of rubber bushings waiting to be swapped in for the unused polygraphite bushings in there now. Good to have this reference.

Brent, it really did not take much force to install the bushings. I probably could have done it with just hand tools.

Just a bit of token work today. I sanded the console speaker hole patches. And I keep sorting through boxes of parts for things to take for powder coating, like the license plate brackets.

Great and quick work. I love the fresh coats on everything!

Taking care of business.

I still have to resist re-coating everything!

Still in a holding pattern, and so taking a chance to sort through parts.

Here's all of the trim pieces (besides the windshield). This includes stuff I took off my car, the the PO had painted black, and a few pieces I have acquired as replacements.

And I have just half of the sun visor hardware.

AndI decided to test the epoxy potting compound I bought for re-sealing the bottom of the relay board.

This is supposed to be flexible so I hope resisting to cracking.

Seems simple enough, with a 50-50 mix and long curing time.

To test the adhesion to the relay board plastic, I partly filled two cavities.

Looks great - I am following with interest.

Me too! It might take 48 hours to fully cure.

That's the stuff I used and it works great. Definitely the way to go. I had planned to sell off my left over (there is enough for 3 boards in a pack) but kept finding uses for it in other projects and decided it was worth keeping on hand.

Saw few members used it and it is on my amazon cart for months until I found used relay board from a member. But still goin to buy it later to repair 2 of my spare relay boards.

Visited the body shop today, and progress has begun again. They are hand sanding doors and lids.

The body is again outside, but they should be sanding this next week.

Chemistry lab today. Time to play with these and more.

First, check on the flexible epoxy from 2 days ago. The bit left in the mixing cup is nicely solid.

And also very flexible, able to fold in half and spring back.

I also checked the test spots I poured on the relay board. The epoxy sticks very well, and I was able to peel up a bit only with quite a bit of force.

Next, I tried some paint stripper on the blacked out trim from my car.

The stripper works well enough, but reveals that like on the chrome bumpers, some PO sanded the polished surfaces before painting.

Then I started a test for materials to protect unpainted steel. I sprayed these on a piece of raw square tubing. These will need 24 hours to dry.

Finally, I gather some miscellaneous small parts with variable amounts or rust, like the retaining clips for the targa hoop trim.

And the rear wheel bearing retainer plates.

And the rear wheel flanges.

All these and more went into the Evaporators-rust bucket to soak overnight.

Coincidently, I have been reading a fun book about rust, the impact it has on human endeavors (at least $400 billion per year), and interesting case examples, like the Statue of Liberty. Hoping for a chapter called the 914.

Chemistry lab follow up. First the epoxy seems a bit stiffer but still flexible.

Next, the corrosion inhibitors. These were both very wet after sitting overnight.

I patted them mostly dry with a paper towel--check back tomorrow.

Now for the Evaporators-rust. Pulling out the basket, and the parts look great.

The small fasteners are almost rust free.

The bearing retainers look almost new.

Flanges have no rust.

Neither do the trailing arm alignment spacers.

Nice looking trailing arm shock bolts.

Most improved: the front torsion bar adjusters. These were covered with rust.

OK, now for some real work. Time to disassemble the half shafts.

Creative washer on one flange bolt. Copper?

Interesting gouge inside one flange.

Now onto the standard procedure. Remove the cir-clip and loosen the boot flange.

Pop off the CV joint and boot.

Repeat on the other end, and then break down the CV joints (keep the parts for each one together).

And after some quality time in the parts washer.

Looking through your thread and seeing all that you're doing, makes me wish I would have documented much more than I did. I took quite a few pictures, but not nearly as many as you. I thought about I when I initially started, but having documented other past projects, I realized how time consuming it was/is. I chose to focus that extra energy on my project.

Thank you for taking the time to do this. Because of people like you, people like me can live vicariously through people like you when we aren't working on our own stuff.

Keep up the good work!