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bkrantz
And then some more perlon material.
bkrantz
Perlon glued on with 3M spray, folded over top surface corners and butted along vertical corners.
bkrantz
Looks pretty good.
bkrantz
Right side.
bkrantz
That reminded me of another little task. The engine lid latch has a lot of play. The latch hook end is very warn. Some of this might be the stock notch, but the diameter is much less.
bkrantz
A welding bead and some hand filing, and the end of the hook is fatter.
bkrantz
Installed.
bkrantz
The engine lid now closes without play.
bkrantz
Rear is looking tidy--ready for the trunk lid.
bbrock
Fabulous megasquirt install! cheer.gif I'm trying to find how you routed you O2 sensor cable. Mine is just zip tied temporary but will need something more permanent when I go MS. I'll keep digging because I know you must have documented it smile.gif
raynekat
You had me on the ski mount plugs.....
Puebloswatcop
Bob,

The cover you made looks awesome. I love seeing the solutions you come up with and then make them happen.
bkrantz
Thanks, Howard. The cover is not done yet. I need to fix it in place. My idea is a velcro patch on the firewall and corresponding spot on the cover. Here's an angled spacer inside the cover to mount the velcro.
bkrantz
While letting the epoxy set, I got started on suspension alignment. I want to get the settings close enough so I can take the car for a test drive, and make the final alignment less of a chore.

After I measured the camber again all around, I got started on the right rear. With the wheel off, I can finally re-attach the sway bar link.
bkrantz
Oops, my inner fender liners block access to the outer suspension mount.
bkrantz
That's better. You can see the original stack of shims: 2 x 4mm, and 2 x 2 mm for a total of 12mm.
bkrantz
The first camber measurement was -0.1°. I want something like -0.75° all around. So I removed one 4mm shim. That dropped the camber right on target to -0.75° (and I noted that each 1mm of shim stack change is about 0.15°).
bkrantz
Same process on the left side, but to get the sway bar link aligned, I had to lift the trailing arm.
bkrantz
Here's the original shim stack on the left side, a 2, 3, and 4 mm for a total of 9mm.
bkrantz
Two 4mm shims decreases the shim stack by 1mm. That got the measured camber to -0.75°.
bkrantz
Then I got started on the front. The top of the left strut is easy to access.
bkrantz
The original camber measured -0.3°, so I shifted the strut top inward about 4mm.
bkrantz
That got the camber to about -0.7° on my high-tech gauge.
bkrantz
Of course, the right strut top is blocked a bit by the evaporator tank.
bkrantz
Tank detached enough to get to the inner bolt.

The original camber measured -0.85°. When I shifted the strut top out as far as it goes, I got -0.6°, and then I moved it back inward to get about -0.7°.

Next up: some rough toe setting.
bkrantz
Oops, I lied. Instead of working on toe settings, I worked on soft stuff. First, here is the velcro on my EFI brain cover, and the trunk wall.
bkrantz
The cover seems pretty well attached.
bkrantz
I also got more door card parts delivered. I now have a variety of pins and cups.
bkrantz
For future reference, the original white pins (and the URO copies) are longer. The black pins, and both the clear and black cups, all from 914 Rubber, are shorter.

I went ahead with the short black pins and cups.
bkrantz
Pins in the right door card.
bkrantz
Door card installed. One of the retaining clips along the top edge was a bit fussy.
bkrantz
And then fully dressed with handle-arm rest and trim.
bkrantz
On the left side, I remembered this: the little support for the middle of the door pocket lid.
bkrantz
This gets screwed on from the back of the door card, so must be attached before mounting the card.
bkrantz
Installed.
bkrantz
Thin new pins in the door card.
bkrantz
And cups in the door.
bkrantz
Door card installed.
bkrantz
And then I spent a half-hour with this fussy little bastard: the spring that holds the lid down. What worked in the end was to have the spring top end inserted into the lid, and then feed the lower end into the door card hole (actually a metal grommet). The fussy part was catching the spring hook on the grommet, keeping it caught, and shifting the door pocket and lid into alignment with the mounting holes in the door.
bkrantz
Got it after about a dozen attempts.
bkrantz
Left door done.
bkrantz
Getting closer.
bkrantz
Here's a look at the interior.
bkrantz
Another look. I think it's pretty good. (Sorry, all you original purists.)
bbrock
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jun 1 2022, 08:25 PM) *

And then I spent a half-hour with this fussy little bastard: the spring that holds the lid down.


av-943.gif I know exactly what you are talking about. But seriously, only a half hour? You must be a natural.

That interior is drooley.gif
autopro
Interior looks incredible, job well done. I really like the way the colors work together aktion035.gif
Dion
That interior looks quite comfortable! wub.gif
Puebloswatcop
Absolutely beautiful Bob. And hey i learned something I had no idea about and that is that there is supposed to be a spring on that door pocket cover. Thanks for sharing, guess now I will be forced to track down one of those buggers...lol beerchug.gif
NARP74
QUOTE(Puebloswatcop @ Jun 2 2022, 03:56 PM) *

Absolutely beautiful Bob. And hey i learned something I had no idea about and that is that there is supposed to be a spring on that door pocket cover. Thanks for sharing, guess now I will be forced to track down one of those buggers...lol beerchug.gif

Same. I hate when that happens!
Cairo94507
Hey Bob- I do not have that pocket lid stop. I hope you don't mind I am going to use that picture to post a WTB to see if I can source one for my car. beerchug.gif
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