First set up for engine work. Very glad to have the extra garage space.

And just enough room to park the snow blower behind my 911. This makes it much easier to fire up on a cold morning.

Nice! I have the same machine parked behind the 356 (under the 914). I guess I should move mine into posit for the season.

For some (dumb) reason I resist using the snow blower unless I have to. Most of the time I push one of these back and forth for an hour.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/pro...17794_200617794

Me too, I have it ready to go, but use it maybe every 3 years...then again I don't like in the Rockies, I live in the swampy DC area. I did get to use it last year and did all down the street to help my neighbors (1/8 acre lots mean I can do in front of about 8 houses quickly)

Just stumbled across this thread. The work is simply amazing! On a scale of 1-10 (10 being the worst), how typical was the rust on this car? I’m on the hunt for one but the thoughts of all that rust repair have me scared.

Bob
I'm out for a pushrod seal and tranny no work 1,3,5. Cant wait to put the motor back in.

Kevin

Bob has done a great job completing the restoration of this car and a great job of documenting the work.

Thanks!

The rust summary:
passenger compartment floor (holes below L and R seats plus L and R front corners)
trunk floor (complete rear edge)
L and R rockers (small holes below A-pillars)
cowl (L and R corners of the frunk gasket channel)
other sections of the frunk gasket channel
RR inner fender wall behind battery mount
R side of fire wall (above and below lower seam above hell hole)
hell hole (outer layer)
R engine shelf

Notably the longs on both sides were near perfect inside and out. Given that, and no rust in related places like the RR suspension pickup, I would guess this rates a 5. None of the rust repair was that hard or required a chassis jog to get right.

I also had to redo PO collision repair done very poorly, including the RR outer fender, the RF inner fender, the front panel and part of the frunk floor, and the rear panel.

Ouch. good luck.

It's a new year, and time for some 914 work. Last month I pulled the engine and set it on jack stands.

After stripping all wires, cables, and fuel lines.

Then the intake manifolds and all the sheet metal.

Then the alternator.

Then the outer blower housing.

Then the blower cage plus the toothed wheel for the Hall sensor.

Then the inner blower housing.

Somewhere in here is one or more oil leaks. See my new thread for more.

Thanks for the info!

More disassembly, on my quest to find the oil leak(s). See my other thread for more details.

I pulled the starter so I can hold the flywheel in place.

And I used a puller to take off the blower hub.

I finally drained the oil. This was the second fill after startup.

And with the cross bar and engine mounts, I could access the pump.

Pump cover off.

After some more investigation, as reported on my other thread about oil leaks, I can say (with embarrassment) that the oil filter was loose and probably responsible for much of the leaked oil.

One other culprit might be the pump cover. I want to make sure the mating surface is flat. So I got out my new reference flat: a piece of machined aluminum plate. I got this at one of my favorite stores, Industrial Metal Supply, in Tucson. They sell just about any type and grade of metal, including aerospace stuff. They also have a room of cut-off pieces, sold by the pound. I paid something like $30 for this machined plate. It has a few scratches, but will serve this purpose.

Here's the cover, cleaned up and old sealant removed. You can see some uneven scoring from the pump gear.

To check the cover flatness, I sprayed the mount surface with flat black.

800 grit paper on the aluminum.

Some light sanding shows that two corners are high.

I got out some 400 grit paper, to start making the cover flat.

First round of sanding, and the cover sure looks uneven, and especially high from lower left to upper right.

After about 30 minutes, but still not quite even. But time for dinner.

I would bet there is a probability for leakage at the pump cover. How much out of whack would you estimate the cover was? It looks as though it is stamped steel with rolled edges.
A loose filter could also create some mess.

Thanks for the investigative work

Yes, stamped steel with folded edge, and then machined. But certainly not flat when installed.

More 400 grit. Not perfect but getting tired, so good enough?

Then 800 grit.

And 1000 grit. Shiny and ready.

With a very thin paper gasket?

Hoping that after all of the detective work and manual labor this is the solution......

Good question. I would like to hear from others. I did not use a gasket originally.

Me too!

While I wait to source engine parts, I figure it's time to get busy on other stuff.

Let's tackle the problems with the left door. See my new thread about weird door lock behavior. The door stop also does not hold the door open.

Interior hardware removed.

Door card removed.

And plastic sheeting.

I tried to be careful, but after several small tears, I gave up.

Some (or lots) of grease on the mechanism and linkage seems to get the lock working.

I took out the door stop. I expected the problem to be a worn aluminum arm, and have a replacement ready.

Yup, the old arm has a fair amount of where.