Now thinking about the oil pressure sender. I know there are options, but I am worried most about oil leaks now, so simple is better. I will mount the VDO sender directly to the case, and like with the "aggressive" idiot light.

In the future I might try something else so I can use the stock idiot light sender. I do feel nervous about any flexible hoses, and will keep thinking about options.

But the VDO threaded stud is longer than stock.

And the VDO sender bottoms out in the case hole.

I rummaged through my miscellaneous hardware and found an aluminum M10 spacer. That plus a pair of copper washers should do it.

Plus a bit of thread sealant.

I sure hope this cures the worst leak I had.

A quick check on electrical conductivity--looks good.

One more thing. The stock sheet metal hole will not clear the VDO sender.

I got out my die grinder for the first time since working on the body in 2021.

I painted the raw edges (primer and black). The rest of it is still powder-coated.

Then a bit of vinyl edging.

This should work.

Mini-marathon today to see if I can get everything back on the motor and be ready for putting in back in the car.

I remembered to check the tightness of the oil pressure release valve cap.

That means I get to use my special tool. I was able to tighten the cap about1/4 turn. Maybe another leak?

Then the oil cooler, with new seals.

As is traditional, a dab of grease to hold them in place.

Cooler installed, but...

Not enough clearance to bolt on the oil filter mount. Grrr.

So, remove the oil cooler and give the new filter mount gasket a smear of sealant.

And bolt on the mount with a new filter. BTW, I have used at least 4 filters since last summer. I think I am getting about 100 mpg (miles per filter).

Cooler back on, and make double sure the seals are in place.

With everything closed up, I did another cleaning to remove any remaining oil spill residue.

Time to start with sheet metal and other air cool system parts. Here's the baffle that mounts behind the oil cooler.

Uh-oh. This also does not clear the VDO pressure sender.

Another 10 minutes with the die grinder and the hammer and dolly. This should work.

Before I forget, a new head gasket for the intake manifold. I like to install this before the sheet metal to make sure it sits on the head.

And another small thing: the Hall sensor and bracket.

Check the clearance with the trigger wheel.

OK, with motor mounts and the cross bar, ready for the blower housing.

Housing installed.

Including the 2 bolts on the side for the oil cooler bracket.

Right side upper sheet metal.

Thermostat spring and cable.

Right side intake manifold.

Crank trigger wheel for good. I think I got it in the right position.

Blower cage.

Left side duct work.

Right side duct work.

Alternator and belt.

Alternator lead to starter, and insulated with 3M rubber tape.

Front sheet metal.

Speaking of leads, I made a new jumper to connect the "stock" oil pressure sender wire to the VDO sender.

It goes here.

That's it. The motor is ready to install (again). And test for leaks (again).

Fingers crossed.

Thanks.

Ready to go up.

Engine bolted in place. Then the two bottom sheet metal pieces.

CV joints bolted to flanges, with new gaskets and Schorr washers.

Shift rod.