Front flex lines and calipers.

For good access to the fittings on top, I removed the rear calipers. These were the most leaky junctions.

And then re-installed the calipers and connected the flex lines. I still need to get to the fittings on the pressure regulator. But dinner time.

anyone is the E-brake guide (tunnel) standard on all 914's ? I remember my 75 in Netherlands didn't have it.

I think so. If you ask the question in a new thread, you will get more answers.

I got my spare mounted, a Vredestein Sprint Classic, 155SR-15, on a stock Fuchs wheel.

This tire is almost as tall as the ones on my 2017 991.

But the 991 rear is just a bit wider.

Test fit in the frunk: the width of the tire is just less than the spare cavity (see the tiny gap below the silver straight edge).

I dug out the spare retaining hardware.

Here's the spare in place and tied down. But the gap towards the rear is about 2 inches, and leaves the floor unsupported.

Looking around in my junk pile, I found a pair of brackets I made for something years ago.

The bracket is just the right height.

I got out some screws and JB Weld.

Here's the bracket attached like a prop under the floor.

Now the custom floor I made sits level, and supported near the back edge.

Last thing today: I checked the brake line attachments at the rear calipers for leaks. The left caliper looks dry.

But the right side is still leaking. I will need to work on this side again.

Whoa, whoa, whoa.....
Dude. Are you actually putting a part looking like this back in that car of yours?
OMGGGGGGGGGGGG
I'm mean the plating, the cleanliness, etc, etc.
I might not be able to sleep tonight without notifying the concour polizei.





hahaha
Looking good as always Bob.
Fun to watch all the progress.

Is the tubing "bubble" flared?

My local NAPA informed me of the bubble, I had no prior idea. Single flare, double flare but never heard of a bubble

Doug, I feel your pain.

I forgot a few things when I sent out my hardware for re-plating. I figure that I should have a few "original" parts on the car, right?

Yes, they have bubble flares--and I trust the source (PMB) to provide the correct flares.

I got the rest of the old tires removed today, and just in time. These all have some scratches, and even a bit of curb rash, but seem to be straight and true. Just dirty.

I ordered Sumitomo HTR A/S in 195/65-15 from Tire Rack yesterday afternoon, and they showed up at 6pm today. No supply chain issues!

I started processing the remaining Fuchs wheels so I can get the new tires mounted.

Step 1: remove the valve stem.

Step 2: A bit of sanding on the curb rash--at least enough to take down any edges and reduce the visibility. I know this removes the anodizing, but I think the trade-off is worthwhile.

Step 3: remove any existing stick-on weights, outside and in.

Step 4: use Goof Off to remove the "recent" adhesive residue.

That works well, and easy.

Step 5: attack any ancient adhesive residue.

Also pretty easy, with Goof Off, and some scraping.

Step 6: Attack the crud inside the wheel with cleaner. Note, this wheel and one other have a pretty solid coat of hardened brown crud.

I tried letting the cleaner sit for about 20 minutes, and then scrubbing with a Scotch Brite sponge. A lot of scrubbing.

After about an hour of scrubbing, this is what I got: partly cleaned but still lots of hard crud.

So, Step 7: I tried some more Goof Off. Nothing.

Step 8: acetone, no effect.

Step 9: painters solvent, no effect.

Step 10: Gumout, no effect.

Step 12: parts cleaner, no effect.

OK, time for more thinking.

I decided to attack the remaining wheel that had "normal" dirt. About 45 minutes with the wheel cleaner got this.

What could it be other than the seat or the bubble flare? Is there a torque spec?

I don't have a torque spec. I did hear from PMB, and the recommendation is to tighten fittings "aggressively". I will try one more time (waiting on a different wrench to get into the small spaces around the pressure valve).

Still working on the two extra-cruddy wheels.

I left one wheel with Chemical Guys cleaner overnight, wrapped in a plastic bag. I was hoping for some magic, but after scrubbing and rinsing, most of the crud is still there.

Based on something I found on the web, I tried one more material: iron removing liquid. I think this is based on the idea that the crud is a mix of dust from the disk, pads, and road grime.

First application: as it works, it turns purple. It also smells pretty bad, like old-fashioned hair salon perm fluid.

After 3 cycles of Iron-X, scrubbing, and rinsing. It works!

Unfortunately, my bottle of Iron-X was almost empty, so I only got about one-fourth the way around. More stuff ordered.

Viel besser!

Slow wins the race.

One thing I found useful in cleaning the anodized Fuchs on 911's was a mixture of white vinegar and hot water.
Not sure if that would be helpful for you on the front sides?

Have you tried Oven cleaner?

This is one project I am not running towards, just spend a few hours cleaning the exterior surfaces of a trans.

Thanks for posting Bob