And a new ground jumper, for the light.

And an extension lead for powering the light, since the stock lead from the clock light does not quite reach. Should be blue, but can find that in my stock.

All wired up.

Power off: the needle sits on the rest.

Power on: the gauge reads 0. Maybe this will work!

Before filling the case with new oil, I fixed one more potential leak--the strainer cover. It still oozes a drop, even with the case drained.

Draining the remaining oil. Looks like one of those cheesy lamps from the 70s.

All the strainer parts. Last year I assembled these dry.

This time, a bit of spray gasket.

Back together and leak-proof?

My choice for the first regular oil fill. Should have enough zinc.

Then a puzzling moment. I tried to pour the first quart of oil into the case and it backed up. Over 5 minutes it gradually went in. I wondered if the cold oil (my garage was about 40° today) was too viscous. Then I started to think. Was I stupid enough to leave the paper towel in the oil breather cavity (to prevent anything from falling into the case while it was out of the car) when I put the breather on?

Yup.

Another stellar moment. Sigh.

At least the oil goes in now. But I spilled a bit on the top of the case when I removed the breather. I am beginning to think that the oil gods are against me.

I did some cleaning up on the engine today. And then got out the last bits to install, the blower hoses.

Done. But getting too late to try starting the engine today.

I did have time to swap out the original bulb in the VDO gauge for LED to match the others.

It works.

OK, time to try an engine start. I got out the exhaust extension I used last year. Kinda torn, and it only lasted about 10 minutes.

Success! It was kinda cold and rough to start (my EFI has no true cold start circuit). But eventually it settled down to idle. It did make a couple of big backfires that I don't remember last year. I will need to check the ITB idle balance.

And the oil pressure gauge works. "Fast idle" (about 1500 rpm) reading 60 psi when cold, and dropped a bit at the oil started to warm up. We will see what it reads when the oil gets truly warm.

Enough engine (and exhaust) for today.

A whole new task: the speedometer. Both odometers did not work, and the speed reads about 5-6 mph too high.

Somebody has had this open before! The retaining ring edge looks a bit rough.

I did the usual gentle prying round and round, until the ring came off.

I did notice these marks on the dial. Reference marks for calibrating the needle?

Remove two screws on the back...

And out comes the gauge guts.

My odometer had the typical problem: the drive comes into the gear on the left side of the upper (main odometer) shaft.

And eventually reaches the pot metal gear on the right end of the number wheels. The metal wheel then drives the ones-digit number wheel, as well as the trip odometer. But the metal gear lost grip on the shaft and does not turn as the shift is driven.

For access, I removed the speedometer drive module. Just 2 more screws.

Then I removed the secondary shaft and the small gears that drive the number wheels. That shaft was crimped on both ends, so it took some work to reduce the crimp on one end.

Secondary shaft and small gears.

The main shaft pulled out easy, since the metal gear had no grip.

All the main odometer parts.

Here's the end of the shaft with marks from spinning in the gear.

To make a "permanent" grip and fix, I first used my side-cutters to make some ridges on the end of the shaft.

BTW, I kinda over did the ridges, and had to sand the shaft down a bit to fit through the hole in the side plate.

Then I deformed the hole in the metal gear with some gentle punches.

Perfect! It took gentle hammer taps to seat the shaft in the metal gear. Now the gear turns with the shaft.

Then the secondary shaft the the small gears. I spun the input shaft and everything seems to work.

That takes care of the odometer. Next up, the speedometer re-calibration. Does anyone know if the needle is a press fit? I tried to pry gently, and it seems stuck.

Amazing- I believe the needle is a press-fit, if I am recalling my conversation with Hartmut at Palo Alto Speedo correctly.

Once again, Bob nails it with a great tutorial

Thanks for documenting

As best I can tell, this is the adjustment screw for the speedometer. But without the right equipment, I decided to put off trying to do something myself. I will live with having to subtract 5 mph from the indicated speed.

Reassembly: mount the speedo drive on the rest of the assembly, including the odometer drive shaft.

I glued the center cap back onto the needle.

And I cleaned the dial face--no dirt or fingerprints.

Back into the housing.

Then I cleaned the glass and all the rings.

Again, the goal is no fingerprints.

Rings and glass back onto the housing.

And then crimping the retaining ring flange. Again, I went a little at a time, round and round.