I used some hardwood plywood, about 5/16" thick.

I drilled some holes for mounting screws, and scored some grooves for better gluing.

I have this all purpose magic construction adhesive. We'll see.

I painted the strip black and glued it in place. Tomorrow I will see how strong the attachment is.

Fully on board with the extinguisher but thoughts on doing a vinyl wrap or painting that fire bottle black or something - unless there is some rule against it? That interior and the whole car, quiet honestly is too nice and could do without that bright red visual distraction.

Interesting idea. See below for views.

The plywood seems pretty well stuck on, so I screwed the bracket in place.

Fire extinguisher attached.

New from the passenger seat.

View from driver seat. I can also reach the extinguisher while seated.

Stunning!

It will be ready for Red Rocks Classic right?

Good idea gluing the wood block and screwing to it. I put mine in front of the drivers seat and just screwed it to the floor. Not my finest hour

I think you can disregard - it's covered by the seat more than I thought it would be.

Awesome Mounting of the fire extinguisher Bob. Great forethought being able to rech it from the driver's seat as well.

I know this was months ago... but were you able to put the outer panels on the headlights without taking the mechanism back out?

And do the terminal numbers next to wiring connections on the taillights have a decoder ring somewhre ?

I hope so. Mike has been twisting my arm locally.

We will see. Seems "smart" as long as the glue sticks.

No problem with headlight clearance. I choose light assemblies that claim to be the same external size as the stock sealed beams or halogens.

The electrical schematic I have does not have complete number codes for the tail lights. Here's a picture of the leads on my left light.

I got out the repro screw covers for the interior.

They are soft, and squish in but don't hold their shape. And the surface gets flaky.

Compared to the original (left) that are stiff plastic.

Then I got out my air filter oil spray.

And I gave the air filters a moderately heavy spray for the first treatment, and left them out for the carrier to evaporate.

I had just a few minutes today, so I re-installed the air filters.

Yup, another task off the list.

[quote name='bkrantz' date='Jun 26 2022, 10:20 PM' post='3011516']
[quote name='nivekdodge' post='3011496' date='Jun 26 2022, 07:19 PM']
[quote name='bkrantz' post='2890152' date='Feb 10 2021, 10:15 PM']
Ready for lamps and trim. I got some LED head lights to try.
[/quote]

I know this was months ago... but were you able to put the outer panels on the headlights without taking the mechanism back out?

And do the terminal numbers next to wiring connections on the taillights have a decoder ring somewhre ?
[/quote]

No problem with headlight clearance. I choose light assemblies that claim to be the same external size as the stock sealed beams or halogens.

The electrical schematic I have does not have complete number codes for the tail lights. Here's a picture of the leads on my left light.

Thanks so much. Funny your Pictures are ten times better than the reference book i bought. As always great work.

[quote name='nivekdodge' date='Jun 28 2022, 03:14 PM' post='3011865']
[quote name='bkrantz' date='Jun 26 2022, 10:20 PM' post='3011516']
[quote name='nivekdodge' post='3011496' date='Jun 26 2022, 07:19 PM']
[quote name='bkrantz' post='2890152' date='Feb 10 2021, 10:15 PM']
Ready for lamps and trim. I got some LED head lights to try.
[/quote]

I know this was months ago... but were you able to put the outer panels on the headlights without taking the mechanism back out?

And do the terminal numbers next to wiring connections on the taillights have a decoder ring somewhre ?
[/quote]

No problem with headlight clearance. I choose light assemblies that claim to be the same external size as the stock sealed beams or halogens.

The electrical schematic I have does not have complete number codes for the tail lights. Here's a picture of the leads on my left light.

Thanks so much. Funny your Pictures are ten times better than the reference book i bought. As always great work.
[/quote]

If by outer panels you mean the top covers or the plastic light surrounds, then yes, they go on after installing the mechanism.

I do not know about a source to decode the tail light terminals. Once you have the ground wire on the correct tab, you can figure out the others by trial.

I got a replacement adhesive pad for the mirror mount, so I decided to see if I could improve the portion stuck to the glass. You might be able to see that after my last attempt, only a strip across the top and bottom shows adherence, and the middle is not stuck on.

To cut through the adhesive, I made a wire garrote.

Wire pulled about half way through.

Mount removed. Pretty easy, and less risk to the glass than trying to pry or twist off the mount.

Sorry for the fuzzy photo, but I cut a cardboard profile on the outside of the glass to make a curve that the base should fit into.

I sanded the mount to match the windshield. That requires a VERY subtle curve, just a barely detectable rocking on a flat surface.

So I stuck the the adhesive pad on the mount, and the mount on the glass--again.

Note: don't do it in this order! See my next post.

I got a better result, with all but the center stuck on.

After I did this, I thought of a better way, to avoid any air bubbles or central unstuck area. Next time, I will still the adhesive pad to the glass first, rolling it on to avoid bubbles, and then stick the mirror base to the pad.

Anyway, the mirror seems stuck on pretty well.

Putting the sticky pad on the windshield 1st has it's own unknown.

How do you know you don't have the same void (or non stick area) between the sticky pad and the mirror mount?

At least you can see void between the sticky pad and the windshield.
You can't see a void between the sticky pad and the mirror mount.

There....that should keep you awake at night.
haha

Looks great Bob.

Geez, Doug. Thanks a lot. Do I want the adhesive to look perfect and worry about a bubble I can't see? Or see the imperfection and assume the inner side is perfect? Or see the imperfection AND worry about the side I can't see?

On a forced break from 914 work since I was told we had volunteered for extended child care assist. I took advantage of the situation to buy my grand daughter her first wheeled vehicle that she drives. She's a bit young and could not quite reach the floor, so I hacked the adjustment to go lower. 914 restoration skills pay off!

Now I need to get a Porsche sticker. Or maybe a NARP sticker.

Yes Bob, she appears to be in race mode , time to get those stickers on there. She is already on the road to 914 land...

What a lil cutie she is.

The mod's have begun, good one papa

A very cute little one that's already on wheels.

Great deal with the usb and where did you get the black tubing for behind the speakers up to the dash?

Really hoping none of my friends see this Bob, Beautiful

won't be long

Bob
Where"d you get the black plastic tubing for the Front longs, behind the speakers grills?
Kevin

Kevin, do you mean the vent tubing? I got those from 914 Rubber.

OK, last baby photo. Final grandpa setup of race walker and driver.

when you do structural sheer glazing in buildings, watch a good glazier do it.
the tape goes on the glass and the bubbles get rolled out.
then the glass with the tape is adhered to the aluminium glazing frame.
(the wobbles in the tape are disguised by later filling with black liquid sealant).

you accept that there will be bubbles in one or the other surface.
the tape bond surface to amount of air bubbles trapped is engineered into the consideration of the tape surface area as an engineering overdesign principle.
one way you see the bubbles, one way you don't.

as well as being visually better, generally speaking the air voids or bubbles if exposed directly to solar radiation through the glass expand more and can start deterioration of the bond around the edges of the bubbles sooner than if on the other side of tape against the frame where the bubbles are not exposed so directly to sunlight.

all that applies for on site glazing.

done in a factory - whole different story. they can evactuate all trapped air when factory bonding glass to aluminium frames or surfaces. never seen it done in person, just the on-site glazing and the right way to do it.

She is on the move, great job grandpa.

Getting back to work, including some minor "punch list" things.

The exhaust tail pipe is still too close to the valence for me. Not touching but not much space.

I brought home a short piece of aluminum pipe with 2.50" ID, and got this onto the tail pipe with 2.50" OD. I put a floor jack under the muffler and then leaned/pushed on the pipe.