No, since oven cleaner is the amateur method for stripping anodizing. Right now I am pretty happy with the iron-removing fluid.

Slow for sure, but it works. Right now I only have 1.75 wheels still to clean.

Thanks for the vinegar tip. I will see how that works.

Got some more tools (More Tools!), to help reach all the brake system fittings without pulling the engine.

Good thing, since at least some of the fittings on the pressure regulator valve are still weeping.

Start with the flare nut crows foot wrenches.

The 11 mm on a 6 inch extension is perfect for one of the fittings on top. I was able to tighten this one quite a bit.

Then I used the 11 mm ratcheting wrench, which also has a flare nut style engagement on the other side. Also quite a bit of tightening.

I also got some hydraulic fitting sealant, as recommended by PMB. This is for the problematic fittings on the rear calipers.

Once again I took the calipers out so I can fully access the fittings on top. I removed and cleaned the hard lines, and the seat inside the caliper body.

Then a thin ring of sealant on the flare.

And then I REALLY tightened the hard line fitting.

One more thing delivered: some more hi-temp wrap, nominally for 2 inch ID.

I used a length for the bundle of cables under the engine, including clutch cable, speedo cable, and O2 sensor cable. Mostly I am worried about the O2 cable plastic plug that sits under the right cylinders. Probably being paranoid, but at least its shiny.

I connected the rear caliper lines, and then tightened all the other connections I did not get to yesterday.

I then did a quick bleed, to make sure I have fluid throughout the system. No leaks yet.

I then left the system pressurized to about 20 psi. It will sit overnight.

A rather big thing got delivered today (the box, no the bike).

I splurged on a new tool cart, from Harbor Freight. I looked at quite a few, online and in person, and this seems to be the best value.

The new cart is 72" long and 22" deep. I have twice as much space as in my old cart, plus drawers that are more than long enough for big tools.

Nice Schwinn.

Oh...the tool box. Yeah, nice.

What a great build this is! Everything is so minty

That's my Ritchey Break-away. It has a cross geometry frame that separates into two sections, and then everything fits into a barely-legal airline size case. When I had my corporate job, and often spent weeks traveling, I took the bike with me. Now it is my go-to bike, for commuting to the nearby college campus and for fun exercise rides.

Thanks. But by the time I get done, I will not be minty.

Brake check! The pressure held overnight, a good sign.

Even better, no leaks, even at the troublesome right rear caliper.

Master cylinder fittings also dry. Yeah!!!

I feel like I have been high-centered trying to get the brake system sealed up.

So feeling confident, I re-attached the parking brake cables and tightened the rear caliper mounting bolts.

Then I finally got back to starting to bleed the system. I used the pressure bottle to bleed all four corners twice, with lots of tapping of components and a few pumps of the brake pedal. I could hear some action in rear.

After this first effort, the initial pedal is still low (but not "zero").

And the pedal pumps up to normal with about 3 or 4 strokes. I think this is a good start.

The postman (person?) delivered 2 more bottles of Iron-X.

I went back to the wheel that I started with the bit of Iron-X I had on my shelf. Lots of purple means lots of iron crud getting dissolved.

Halfway there. This new batch is still smelly, and works perhaps a bit better.

After about an hour of treating, soaking, scrubbing, and rinsing--done! Just one more wheel to go.

I did another round of brake system bleeding, and have a firmer pedal. I also adjusted the rear caliper pad clearance.

First, I removed the pad spreader spring.

For the outer adjuster, I have the perfect wrench: a Facom socket wrench. This has an open end to allow the Allen wrench through.

Clearance set. I used .008" for the initial running. Once everything is settled, I will try for .004"

On the inside, I unscrewed the new PMB caps (with 5 mm hex indents).

The adjuster on the inside takes a 4 mm Allen wrench.

I adjusted the inside pad also to .008".

I put a dab of anti-seize on the cap before installing.

Don't forget the copper ring gasket.

I put all the spring hardware back in.

Oops! Its not straight!!!

While I was under the car, I also adjusted the parking brake cables.

And then pulled the rubber boots over the nuts.

Then onto the last wheel. Like the last one, this had a pretty solid coating of brake crud.

The first application of Iron-X made a big purple mess.

After 30 minutes of apply, soak, scrub, and rinse (multiple times).

After about an hour.

Hour and a half.

And after 2 hours, done. All four wheels are cleaned on the inside.

And the outside, too. These are certainly not concours, but will do. At least now I get head back to the tire shop.