Just a few things to tease the Wanna Buy crowd.

Powder-coated 2.0 air filter housing.

LE style front air dam, fiberglass (no indication that it is factory).

Rebuilt 2.0 cylinder heads.

Stay tuned for a listing in the classifieds.

Bob,

Great thread and thanks again for documenting. Looking back how many things would you have done differently? If you can answer, it might be a big question

I may be interested in the heads

Geez, what a question. The first, obvious answer is that I would have looked for a cleaner car to start with. A couple of other things that come to mind:
- Done more body work and panel fitting with the doors mounted
- Been more engaged with the paint shop, especially before the color coat started
- Did a complete dry assembly of the engine, and checked alignment and clearances (especially deck height)
- Generally have a known standard for work from the beginning. The further along I got, the higher my quality standards got. I ended up going back to do things over, and bought more than one version of some parts.

I brought the car home from the paint shop. They did a few local touch-ups, and polished the exterior. It looks very good. Rain was threatening, so I did not stop until I got home.

Now I can start with the badges and other things.

Back to work! Looking ahead, I have a bunch of mostly small stuff to take care of, and oi still need to figure out why the brakes seem weak. I have a few weeks before winter. Then I plan to drop the engine and chase some oil leaks and take care of other things.

Today's task: miscellaneous badges and stickers. I have new insignia for the rear panel, a new chassis/color badge (with the updated color!), and a repro door frame build sticker.

Here's the rear panel, with the original holes filled by the paint shop. I thought about drilling these out, but decided to leave the panel as-is. No potential leaks, and it gives me the option to shave the panel in the future.

Figuring out the stock placement.

After this I laid out the position on the panel with painter's tape. I did not get a photo, but imagine a bunch of blue tape.

The new insignia are cast metal with screw posts. Done nicely, but not right for me.

A few minutes with a Dremel tool and cut-off disk.

That's when I realized that the repros are about 5% smaller than the original. I adjusted the planned positions on the car.

I decided to use trusty 3M adhesive tape.

The easy step: sticking lengths of tape to the insignia.

The harder step: timing the adhesive tape with a new blade, so it was just inside the metal edges.

Final step: stick 'em on the car. It was a bit chilly today, so I used my heat gun to warm up the sheet metal first to encourage good adhesion.

Wide view.

I know the obvious choice for a yellow car is black insignia, but chrome fits my vision.

Next, I tackled the build sticker. I made the paper template from the original on the door jamb.

Here's the template in place.

BTW, my research shows an infinite variation on placement, up-down, side to side, and angle.

Sticker in place. Although the original was sliver, I opted for black--that was found on some cars in 1973 (as far as I can tell).

Sounds as though mostly, measure twice, cut once. For the most part you must be more than pleased to have gotten her complete and driving.

I agree 100% with @bkrantz . Having a comprehensive plan before you begin is very helpful. There always tends to be issues that pop-up along the way. The single biggest thing I would add is if you farm work out, make sure the shop is within visiting range so you can keep tight reins on the project and see the actual work they are doing. Photos do not really cut it.

Yes, indeed. I just have to keep my inner perfectionist from getting out.

Replacement chassis badge with color code. Pop quiz: what color does the new badge show?

I took out the door stay pin to gain a bit more opening (but not much).

First adjustment: the holes in the new badge are too small for the rivets. I drilled them bigger.

Next problem: the rivets are too thin to wedge into the holes in the door frame. I decided to glue the rivets in place. Not factory, but O cam remove them later if necessary.

Holding the badge in place, so I can get the lower rivets installed.

All done.

Punch list is getting shorter.

Racing yellow

Bob, the door compliance sticker placement was right on.

And with the paint tag...I did the same thing on my 911.
Used a bit of glue and it worked out great.

Your car is looking awesome.
You just need to sell it me next Spring....NOT. hahaha

Winner!

And while not correct for 1973, it is at least a Porsche color.

Hi, Doug. I could not find any definitive info for setting the rivets mechanically. I thought about removing the door switch and sneaking some tool inside the jamb--and then trying to mushroom the end of the rivet. But that started to feel like too much work!

If you don't want to buy it, bring the crew to Colorado and you can borrow it.

I was going to get it running and legal then start to tear it apart. Next thing you know it's sideways on a rotisserie.

Bob
How long was your lead to the starter?

Kevin

4 ft

Another small jobs that was not on the list (except in my head). The left fog light was loose, and kept falling forward. I had tried before to tighten the mount, without removing the bumper, but could not get a wrench or socket on the nut.

That meant I got to buy a new tool, another Facom angle wrench, 14 mm.

The angle and offset is perfect! I made the nut up tight in 30 sec.

Done.

Next, another problem with something loose, in this case the heat duct control lever. If I place it half-way, it falls down to closed. Even all the way up (open), it drops down when driving.

Time for another special tool, this one from the back of the tool chest: a vintage Hazet wrench from an old 914 tool kit. The head on the 13 mm end is thinner than any other wrench I own.

That was just thin enough to hold the nut on the outside of the pivot bolt, with a socket on the bolt head. It took a couple of attempts to get the tightness just right.

Success--maybe. The pivot bolt is tight enough to hold the lever in the middle, against the tension of the heat duct valve cables.

Last job today: filling all the interior trim screw holes with plugs.

Here's my collection of plugs. The ones in the top center are the few I rescued from the car, and feel like hard plastic. Replacements are on the left, lower center, and right.

The first replacements I tried a few months ago feel like soft rubber, and I did not have much luck getting them in the trim holes without mangling them. I then ordered what are supposed to be factory plugs. They also feel like rubber, but much stiffer.

Pretty easy to plug all the holes, inside the targa hoop and along the A-pillars.