The bad. The harness for the alternator. Intact, but kinda crusty.

And the ugly. The stock EFI harness. Fortunately, the new Dub Shop EFI will replace all of this.

I plugged the connectors into the relay board, and replaced the original relays and fuse.

Getting closer to my electrical system test.

SHOCKING......... to realize your car is yellow
Looking good.

These might be an option if you think there is enough material to drill and tap an oversized hole.

https://www.mcmaster.com/keensert-threaded-...urement~metric/

Wow! You still have the retaining clips for your harnesses. Mine are missing and I can't bring myself to pay $20 each for NOS.

Everything is looking awesome....

Thanks. Those look interesting. I am still trying to decide what to do.

I had one. When I posted a WTB on 914 World, somebody (sorry I can't recall who) volunteered one more.

Thanks. Still a ways to go (and I am pretty sure I will go beyond my September 1 goal).

The outsource saga continues. I brought my cylinder heads to Tucson, and in between helping my son move, called around for trouble-shooting shops. That led first to Chirco, VW air-cooled specialists. They sent me to an old school machine shop. The plan now is for Chirco to take the heads apart, then the machine shop will weld up the bad stud holes and crack and redrill the holed (and heat treat the heads), and then Chirco will reassemble the heads.

Home again, and time to work on more electrical things.

I have a plan to convert the fog lights to LED, but have not found a bulb that will fit the over-size socket. Instead, I want to insert a standard socket inside the larger one.

Here's the old base, with the positive tab removed.

And here's my first attempt, with a collar around the new small socket made from copper pipe--double layer.

Second attempt, after I could not get the copper pipe filler to fit: good old JB weld. Now I have 2 fittings with the correct socket for an 1156 type bayonet bulb.

Sockets complete, with new LED bulbs. If these are not bright enough or have the proper beam pattern, I will look for others.

Now to sort through and select the best parts from 2 pairs of lights.

Plus new lenses.

And new gaskets.

Modified bulb holder installed.

Rubber grommet in housing.

One complete light.

And it works!

And installed for testing. Ignore the temporary electrical connections.

With the fog lights installed, it was almost time for the car electrical test. I tried to temporarily install all the remaining components, like the gas tank lever sender.

And some engine components: coil, alternator, starter.

Time to connect a battery.

As soon as I connected both battery leads, the headlights cycled and stopped--but not in proper closed positions. No surprise since I installed the motors and linkage randomly.

As soon as I connected both battery leads, the headlights cycled and stopped--but not in proper closed positions. No surprise since I installed the motors and linkage randomly.

I then started testing various components, with the ignition off and on.

Things that worked correctly:
Fog lights (including switch light)
Hazard lights (including hazard switch)
Horn
Gas gauge and light (assuming correct for now)
Ventilation fan
Wipers
New washer pump
Brake lights
Rear heater blower
Interior light

Things not (yet!) correct:

Some lights (gauges, license plates) are on as soon as battery is connected
High beam indicator always on
Left front parking light out
Right rear tail light showing reverse lamp instead of parking lights
Head lights cycle up and down endlessly

Looking good, isn't it great when you power a project for the first time and hold your breath. One by one you can work through issues. What is timeline for the engine?

Thanks. I was definitely holding my breath--and I thought about holding a fire extinguisher. Luckily, no sparks, smoke, or melted wires (yet).

Once I get my cylinder heads repaired, and brought from Tucson by my son around July 1, I want to focus all my attention on the rest of the engine build, and then starting to install the custom EFI and electronic ignition system from the Dub Shop. Mario is almost done with prep.

More electrical gremlin hunting today. First the good news.

I "fixed" the problems with the headlights cycling up and down (and up and down) as well as the parking lights staying on by removing the headlight switch from the dash. I don't know if while installed the plunger could not shut off completely, or if removing the switch caused me to twist the wires and switch connectors, or even something internal, and make it work properly. I also reset the push rods so the headlights were both properly down with the power off.

Anyway, when I reconnected the battery, the dash lights and license plate lights were off. And when I pulled the headlight switch on, the lights rose up and stayed. When I pushed the switch in, the lights dropped and stayed. I cycled them a few more times, and they responded correctly, but...

But, the right headlight assembly made contact with the fender side of the box (maybe I forgot to tighten the pivot bolts) and got stuck. As the motor drove the light to open, it broke the inner pivot.

Now I get to buy another pivot!

I fixed the connections on the right tail light, so now running lights come on as they should.

And I jumped the leads for the reverse switch, and the backup lights came on.

Some fiddling with the socket base, and the front left running light came on.

I ran power to the starter, and turned the key to start, but nothing. I checked the yellow solenoid feed wire and got full voltage, so I suspect the solenoid. (No voltage showing here, since I could not hold the key to start and get the photo at the same time)

I also checked (and fiddled with) the door contact switches, and the dash "generator" light. But the column switch to toggle between low beams and high beams still did not work. I pulled the relay, and wiggled the connections.

And success! I can switch from low to high beams and back.

I also hooked up the center console gauges, and all seem to work. The clock ticks, and kept time for about 2 hours before I disconnected the battery.

One more known problem: although the turn signals and emergency flashers work properly in the external running lights, the dash indicators do not work. This is the aftermarket flasher relay that is designed to work with LED bulbs.

According to Spoke, the problem is that the low current draw for LED bulbs is not enough to trigger the auxiliary ground in the relay, so the dash indicator bulbs get power but are not grounded. I confirmed this with my voltmeter. Spoke suggests this add-on ground wiring behind the tach. I will try this next.

Just an FYI: you may want to keep a can of "Deoxit" close by for a quick spray of all connections. 1/2 of a century can wreak havoc on connections. I have used Deoxit for years, it works great available from Amazon.

Another FYI: project looks great, thank you for documenting, I am jealous because I don't have the time available to take our project this far.

Broke the headlight pivot.....yes those small electric motors are very powerful. About cut off a finger when fiddling with the wiper motor (same kind). Gotta be careful with those guys.

Everything looks great Bob.
I didn't have as many startup E gremlins as I used an NOS harness in my build.

Thanks. I used a couple of different contact cleaners on everything when I went through the harness, and most of the components.

Yes, I am really enjoying the chance to indulge my perfectionist.

Thanks, Doug. Not really so many gremlins, at least in the harness. And some were self-induced.

I am feeling over the hump today. I reinstalled the headlight switch and the fuse panel, and everything still works as it should.