And this.

I propped the trunk lid in place, to compare alignments. The lid has its own issues, including a dip along the trailing edge.

Right side looks pretty good.

Left side not so great. The problem is mostly a "droopy" lid edge.

I worked more today to get things "straight": the top and bottom of the raised boss, and the top edge of the rear panel.

After some moderate metal work, things looked a little better.

Eye-balling along the lower edge of the boss. Ignore all the lumps for now.

Watching the angles.

When things where looking nearly straight by eye, I rigged up my long level as a reference line. Looking pretty good, with a variance of about 1/16 inch.

But the trunk lid has its own problems, especially along the rear edge.

As I started to work the trunk lid edge, I heard a crunch, and my rust-free lid suddenly had a rust-trough hole. Damn. (See my other thread asking for advice)

Anyway, I kept working the lid edge and got things a bit better before quitting.

Looks good enough for a 10 foot car, but I want better.

Great pic here Bob.
Well...spend a bit more time tweaking the trailing edge of your rear "bonnet" and I think you'll be very satisfied with the result.

Click to view attachment

Man....a ton of body work is coming your way, eh Mate?

Yep, I consider bodywork the next phase, or two. First, I want to work the metal to get it as good as I can, and then later need only some thin filler.

I decided to take a break from the rear, and work on the front left fender. To get enough flex in the outer curve next to the turn signal hole, I had to cut slots in the flange. Once I got the profile correct, I welded the flange. Things got rigid again and held the correct curve.

Next, I welded all the puller holes from the PO repair. And, I committed to my first mod: shaving off the warts, and filled those holes as well.

Sorry, I should have told purists to look away.

Dude. I've discovered I'm much more of a purist than I thought, but even I couldn't bear to put those ugly warts back on my car. It looks so much nicer without them.

Watching your work is really awe inspiring. I know you said this isn't your first rodeo, but just how many rodeos have you had? Watching your work is inspiring and - a little annoying.

After grinding the welds, I got the fender shape about 90% right.

To get the next 5% I am going beyond where I stopped in the past (and where I would use thicker filler to get the final profile).

So I am trying to learn new tools and techniques. Like using a template gauge, and taking profiles from an unmolested fender to guide my work on the victim fender.

Take the curve from here...

And use it to judge the work here. Gaps still need work.

Getting closer to 95%.

And after some additional work by eye and feel. I have another new technique to try for even more refinement.

But meanwhile, plugging the wart holes on the right side.

This fender also needs some shaping, especially along the front and lower corner.

Working through the welding list.

And getting started on the shaping list.

This man knows no fear.....go get 'em Bob.

Maybe too dumb to know any better--but still happy!

I only had about 30 minutes in the garage today. I spend most of the day listening to and grading student presentations (senior thesis projects), and then did a stint of yard work to keep the boss happy.

I did have time to mark reference lines on the right front fender, check the profiles, and do a bit of banging.

Got to use the magic tool again today (shrinking disk). The section I was working had some mild oil-canning.

Then I got on to shaping, and things are close to matching profiles.

Just dropping in to admire your progress. You have some serious metalworking skills and a ton of patience. Can't wait to watch your car continue to come together.

Thanks--just learning as I go. My secret weapon is that I don'r know enough to doubt my chances for success.

On the the next phase, trying to get the fender as smooth as possible. I might have fantasies about getting the metal ready for paint, but I can settle for a surface as smooth as possible, and then a minimum amount of filler.

First step is using some guide coat spray.

That provides a uniform matte black coat. The surface looks pretty good.

Then a a light sanding, to reveal the highs and lows--things look a little rougher now!

Now to raise the low spots and tap down or grind the highs.

I also got started on the right rear fender, laying out guidelines to compare profiles.

Here are the some lines on the left side to use as profile models.

Had a fun visit by a local 914 friend today, who brought his raspberry 6. We had fun talking 914 and other car stuff, and I was able to get a look at some details that will help me. Thanks, Mike!

I then got back to work, but found that my grinding broke though some of the puller hole welds, so I took a few steps back, and re-welded.

Of course, that means re-grinding, re-shaping, and re-smoothing.

If it's not too much trouble at some point can you explain how you are using the index / guide lines on the fender? I get it conceptually, but this looks interesting and potentially helpful. And I need to get better at this...

Thanks.

Anytime Bob - it was nice to get out and see your work first hand.

Just for you, Rob, I took some photos of my procedure with the template gauge.

Step 1: "zero" the gauge by pressing against something flat.

Step 2: press against the fender, holding the gauge perpendicular and along the selected line.

Step 3: Now hold the gauge (gently) along the same line on the other side, and note the misfit. Areas to be raised or lowered are obvious.

Step 4: repeat the process along all the lines. I start with the central vertical line, then the central horizontal line, and after that work my way out.

After about an hour, I got the right fender profiles pretty close to the left side.

I then went back to the front fenders, trying to level out the high spots, followed by another guide coat and sanding. I might be getting as close as I can without going nuts.

Here's the left side.

And the right side.