But the coating was a bit too thick, so I sanded each rail until the slider moved easily.

Ready to slide.

Then it was time to install the tilt control levers. Rebuild kit from 914Rubber, with inner and outer bushings, and new split pins (more about those in a minute).

Bushings installed.

Easy to get to this point, with all the parts in place, including the spring. But how to twist the spring AND insert the split pin?

I was able to use an awl to push the spring and align it with the hole. But then I can't insert the pin.

So how about a piece of 1" aluminum bar, to prop the end of the spring? OK...

And then, while holding my breath, remove the awl and insert the spilt pin. But the new ones are a bit too large in diameter. While trying to tap and then bang it in, the aluminum prop popped out, the spring un-sprung, and the pin went flying, and is now AWOL in my garage.

Instead, I used the original pins, that still fit tight but I was able to insert with moderate tapping.

Last piece: the knob for the tilt lever.

The final part is new seat adjuster handles.

All ready for the seat!

More seat time. Runners bolted to the seat shell bottom.

Seat base bolted into car.

And then slide the seat into place.

Both sides including bottoms (and I could not resist mounting the steering whee).

Another view.

Looking good Bob, any updates with the mill?

Very clean looking interior. Nicely planned.

Thanks. Getting a mill is still a dream.

Thanks. I am glad the vision I had looks good for real.

Some more interior bits today. Here are three shift lever boots, from left to right:
original?
first replacement
second replacement

Why two replacements? Because the first is made from a cheesy fake leather, and the outer skin separated from the inner layer, which is falling apart. The second replacement, on the right, is made from real leather. I got this from an eBay vendor in the UK. Much better.

I mounted the boot directly to the console panel underside, using contact cement.

Before installing the panel, I wanted to hide the bight stuff visible through the slot for the heater control lever.

A scarp of black vinyl took care of that.

The final bit on the panel is the "Defroster" indicator. This now has an LED bulb.

Wiring from the underside.

I sourced a new knob for the lever, in brick red instead of the bright red.

I also have a new shift knob and bushing.

New knobs!

A final trinket: after many months of searching, I found a Porsche crest button for the Nardi wheel that came on the car. I know after-market steering wheels upset some people, but one of the things I changed on my first 914 was the wheel.

And I like this as the only Porsche crest on the car.

After that, I fastened down the arm rest, with the hidden control for the hidden audio system, complete with USB plug for phones.

Here's a shot of the interior, complete except for doors and windshield.

SWEET

Outstanding!

Thanks, guys. I hope all the bits stay together when I try driving.

More tools! Thats why we play amateur mechanic, right?

I rationalized getting a 12 inch caliper to deal with measuring push rods. And a new dial gauge since my near-antique Sears model was acting odd.

And while I was shopping, why not a better dial gauge support thing?

But before playing with new toys, I played with new hardware. I got some M5 Allen head bolts.

Two of these replace the temporary bolts I used in the centers of the lower sheet metal pieces. This makes my OCD happy, since they match the M6 Allen heads I used for the other spots.

OK, time to play with the pushrod lengths again. Here is my new dial gauge set up.

I also made a cardboard template to help with judging alignment. This wedge is 14 degrees, which matches the inclination of the valves relative to the perpendicular of the cylinder head faces.

Here's a measurement of valve lift on the #1 intake, with a 268 mm push rod length. The lift is .432". I was able to repeat that multiple times.

And at half-lift, the rocker arm and adjuster nut line up nicely, so the adjuster and valve stem should be in a straight line.

On the exhaust valve, I got a max lift of .410. As expected, this is less than the intake valve lift, since the rocker arm ratios are a little different. I also got excellent alignment. Again, this was with my adjustable pushrod set to 268 mm.

For "fun", I installed stock 271 mm pushrods, and .074" shims under the rocker shaft supports. Still on cylinder #1, I got these results:

intake, .432" lift, excellent alignment
exhaust, .412" lift, excellent alignment

I confirmed these by putting the same shims under the rocker shaft supports for #4, with

intake, .432" lift
exhaust, .409" lift

both with excellent alignment

Now I need to decide on my solution: adjustable pushrods or shims.

Yes !!! death the cheese heads, so much easier to deal with using long allen head wrenches

Agreed. Just don't say that in Wisconsin.