Full Version: Rebuiding Inside-out
Pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136
Right side.
Lids.
Some other projects around the shop, in progress (on on pause?).
It is nice to see that the body shop is progressing!
Can't wait to see it with color on it.
See you Tuesday!
Can't wait to see it with color on it.
See you Tuesday!
Back at home, I tried some paint remover on the blower housing.
Most of the paint came off the inner half, but not so much on the outer half. It might have had more paint, so I will try again.
I also got into the engine sheet metal.
The upper pieces all needed a bit of metal work.
The upper right piece had some half-ass brazing done, which did not cover all the cracks. Next step will be grinding off the brazing.
Back to work on the sheet metal today. Step 1 was grinding off all the brass brazing.
Then a bit of welding.
And grinding. I will give this another pass, since I plan to powder-coat the engine sheet metal so can't use filler.
Today, after 2 more rounds of weld and grind. I think this is good enough, and ready for the powder coat shop.
And also another round of paint stripper on the outer blower housing. Not sure what will come next.
And then I opened the dreaded box I have ignored for months.
The engine/FI harness is in pretty good shape, but needs all new connector boots.
The main harness has several PO modifications.
Another
And another
I stopped by the body shop again today, which is about 3 weeks since they started work.
They are almost done with the second phase of filler, getting the surface smoothness and contours precise.
With luck, the car will be in primer in a few days.
nice to see this progress, and good luck with the wireloom ! although it has some PO-modifications, it does not look too bad (from the pics at least). Good that you have created a space for it to work on !!
QUOTE(Frankvw @ Jul 23 2020, 06:08 AM) 
nice to see this progress, and good luck with the wireloom ! although it has some PO-modifications, it does not look too bad (from the pics at least). Good that you have created a space for it to work on !!
Thanks. I took a more careful look, and removed most non-stock coverings. I flagged all the problems with blue tape, and then chickened out and put it back in the box.
I also wanted to clear my table so I could lay out the suspension. Here are all the parts as they came off the car last September.
I surveyed everything and spotted some minor problems, including worn and loose bushings and a beat-up steering rack boot flange.
I took apart the front struts. Interesting inserts, and look relatively new.
Unfortunately, the left strut housing has a bigger problem: the threads on the inside are worn away on one side. My guess is that the original insert got loose and wore away the threads.
I will need to replace this. Any specific years that match (or not) my 1973? Here's the only number I could find on the strut housing.
I had a busy day taking the suspension components apart. Here's my method for removing the end fittings and bushings on the front A-arm: using my cheater extension to rotate and twist the fitting off.
Once the end fitting is off, I then pried the bushing out.
I also removed the ball joints. Given the neat and tidy bending of the cotter pins, I bet these were original.
Next, I took the rear shocks and springs apart. Pretty easy with my trusty spring compressor. I originally bought these for working on 914 springs almost 30 years ago.
These springs have green color code.
I then got on to pressing out the rear wheel bearings and hubs. I know this Jenga set up looks sketchy.
This was going to be just a mock-up, but when I put just a small amount of pressure on the hub, it moved.
On one side, the bearing came out intact, but on this side one bearing race came out on the hub.
That led to one extra step on the press.
The bearing grease on that side was almost dry and hard.
Trailing arms without bearings!
The last step was pressing out the axle. I pressed one end in far enough to clear the bushing.
I could then pry the bushing out.
I then pushed the other end of the axle in past the bushing, and pried out that side.
Trailing arm axles out!
And I found the traditional hieroglyphics on the trailing arms.
I am curious about the paint. One trailing arm has reasonably intact black paint, but this side is almost paint-free.
Great tear down pics Bob.
Keep up the fantastic work.
Keep up the fantastic work.
QUOTE(raynekat @ Jul 24 2020, 11:14 PM)
Great tear down pics Bob.
Keep up the fantastic work.
Thanks, Doug. Still in tear-down mode, but at least I can imagine how these pieces will go back together.
I forgot the last two rubber bushings, in the strut top mounts.
That took about 60 seconds with the press.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.