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Full Version: Rebuiding Inside-out
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Ready for mounting the exhaust. The copper gaskets are new--the "dirt" is from heat treatment.
Gaskets installed. Pushed in just right, they stay in place.
I got to try my wobble extension.
Just enough flex to reach past the exhaust tube.
Heat exchangers installed.
Muffler time. It did run kinda hot during the dyno tune session last summer.
New gaskets.
Flanges aligned and bolted--I did have to loosen the nuts on the cylinder heads to get the exchangers lined up.
And then the muffler mounting clamps.
Exhaust all done.
Fantastic work Bob. One hellava 914!
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 4 2023, 10:01 PM) 
And then the muffler mounting clamps.
My forehead would find those screws repeatedly. I never realized how good my hair prevented cuts and scrapes!!!!!
Kevin
QUOTE(Dion @ Mar 5 2023, 06:38 AM)
Fantastic work Bob. One hellava 914!
Thanks. Maybe this year I can drive it more than wrench on it.
OK, hoping today I can wrap up the underside. Getting tool old to enjoy hours on a creeper.
J tube
Mounted on the exchanger. I still prefer Allen head bolts.
Fancy duct.
Installed.
Heat valve.
Plus hi-temp hose.
And then the new sheet metal I dod not have last year. Let side piece.
Installed.
Right side.
Installed.
Then time for the clutch cable. That means getting out my 11mm wrenches, including the slim wrench, so I can adjust the cable nut and lock nut.
That's done.
Then the speedometer cable.
Since this cable did not come with a boot, I made my own with 3M rubber tape.
Then the O2 sensor cable.
I bundled all the cables and covered then with the plastic cable wrap.
Last thing: connecting the heater valve control cables. Seems like they work.
OK, that should be everything underneath. Yay!
Checklist check.
Instead of plastic on cables you might want to use Fire Sleeve
QUOTE(Van914 @ Mar 6 2023, 05:03 AM)
Instead of plastic on cables you might want to use Fire Sleeve
Thanks for reminding me. I had that on last year.
I found the heat sleeve, and a metal zip tie.
Time to get my new oil pressure sender and gauge wired.
Back into crimp and heat-shrink mode.
Sender end is done.
The other end is more complicated.
First of all, the gauge diameter is too small.
I have an idea: 1/8" thick rubber.
Here's a 1/2" wide strip wrapped around the gauge.
Now it's a snug fit, and looks pretty good.
Time to sort out the wiring, so connect the battery for the first time since December.
That also let my cycle the fuel pump and check for leaks. Nothing obvious!
That also let my cycle the fuel pump and check for leaks. Nothing obvious!
I need a switched positive lead. I deleted the clock, but can't use the lead for that since it is unswitched. Instead, I will take power from the volt meter.
That means time for a twin spade adapter.
And a jumper lead.
And isolating the power lead for the clock.
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