Underside of floor all done.

I did find a couple of temporary screw holes from fitting the floor section. These will get welded tomorrow.

Thanks, Brent. I got started seriously in October, so I count 8 months. Of course, most of the big jobs are not listed here. I wonder if the owner will pay for my time.

Anyway, the last photo of the list with all the metal work done!

White board is looking great!!! Fantastic work.

Thanks. Gotta wait for the next version.

Back to grinding today. My focus was inside the frunk.

Got the frunk finished (unless another weld is hiding somewhere).

And a quick weld and grind on the floor screw holes.

More grinding today. Got the left side of the inner floor done.

Only with smiles per miles..

Finished the right side of the floor.

I also started making the next list.

Onto the trunk interior today. Grinding welds is getting old.

I also took care of the spot welds along the top of the right fender, in the trough.

The trunk is done.

The corners are a little ugly, since I had to build up the weld to close jagged seams.

Right side.

Left side.

I took care of all weld grinding (as least the ones I can reach) in the engine compartment today. Most of that was along the seam on the rear edge of the floor panel, where I duplicated the factory edge weld in addition to some plug welds.

I notice you’re using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. How do you like this setup for grinding welds? I’ve been alternating between using a 4.5 inch angle grinder and a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for grinding welds. The dremel tool is great for precise control, but it’s very slow. Been contemplating buying the same tools you show in your pictures.
Thanks,

I like it very much. It cuts quicker (beware!) and reaches into corners. Of course, it also leaves a more irregular surface unless I am VERY patient and careful.

I got through grinding all the remaining welds on the body today--job done!

And then a short interlude, to remove the grill from the engine lid. Note the custom location for the model and engine numbers. (The PO installed a reflector across the rear panel)

And now on to the final job before sending the car to the paint shop: doors.

Here are the good doors, including a donor for the left side.

Here's the original left door. When I peeked inside months ago, I found some wrinkly metal. So more bondo.

And the botched repair led to some rust along the bottom edge.

Thank you. I ordered my electric die grinder and set of carbide burrs this morning. Hopefully they will lessen the chore of weld grinding a little bit.

Pferd makes a set of wheels called CC-GRIND for your angle grinder. For weld grinding, these things are pretty amazing. Turned a task I dread into one I can tolerate.

Thanks--looks interesting. When possible I use a flap disk (mostly 60 grit).

I got the right door stripped down today, removing the glass, frame and guides, the winding mechanism, and the lock. Amazing how little the bare door weighs.

This door has a bit of surface rust in the weatherstrip channel along the bottom, but nothing significant.

The only work to do is fixing the mirror holes. The PO had aftermarket mirrors (cheap Vitaloni copies). I need to weld the forward hole, and rescue the stock rear hole with internal nut. (And open up the other stock hole.)

BTW, here is the new list--and progress.

Looks good, great work. That electric die grinder looks pretty handy - as someone who doesn't have a compressor big enough to run air tools. Will have to look into that. Keep it up!

-Derek

I also have compressor limitations. And I bought the big electric die grinder after burning out multiple Dremel tools.

I got the left door stripped today. This is a donor door to replace the original, which has to much collision damage and rust.

This door has the internal collision beam. The original doors did not (October 1972 build date). BTW the beam adds about 14 lbs to the door shell, 35 lbs vs. 21 lbs.

The donor door also has a pretty thick undercoat layer. I assume this was not factory.

And this door has some rust along the bottom channel seam. Have to decide how to fix this.

An update on the list.

All the doors I've seen had that undercoating. I think it was sprayed in as a sound deadener but don't quote me on that.

Thanks. Either way, it stays.

I got back to working on the doors today. On the right (original) door that meant welding shut the hole the PO drilled for an aftermarket mirror, and then opening up the stock mirror hole and chasing the threads.

On the left (donor) door I have to replace some rusty sections of the weatherstrip channel flange along the lower edge. The worst spot is at the rear curve.

Rusted section cut out.

New metal welded in, and ground smooth and even.

Today, the hero tools were the Dremel with mini cutoff disk, and the die grinder with small ball bit.

Next up are two longer sections along the door bottom.

Another day in 914 restoration paradise.

Here's the door with the long rusty sections removed.

A close-up of one section.

I did realize that these sections no longer have any connection between the door skin and inner panel, so added some short weld beads.