Thats an awesome table Bob, with the price of lumber these days that is easily a $10,000 investment.

Mirror day. I found two original late mirrors, and gathered all new hardware, including stainless screws.

One needed some tightening of the internal tension bolt. That requires a very thin wall 10mm socket.

Mirrors installed, and aimed.

One more off the list.

While I was in the car I remembered that the left side dash vent had two problems: it tends fall out of the dash, and the pivoting vertical vanes flop around.

To provide some drag on the vane body, I cut a thin rubber washer from a bike inner tube.

This can't be too thick, since the pivot peg on top is short.

That tightened up the pivot nicely, with a small amount of drag.

To make the vent lock into the dash, I pried all the retaining clips outward from the body--while holding my breath.

Now the vent clicks into the dash, and stays in.

One more thing I noticed while sitting in the car: the clock is still going, but has lost about 30 minutes over 2 weeks.

The last thing I did today was move the trunk lid from my hall closet to the garage. I think that was the last 914 part I had inside my house.

re: clock losing time - have you been disconnecting/reconnecting the battery in short bursts over that time?

No, that's why I noted the slow running. The car has been connected to battery non-stop for at least 2 weeks (andmostly on a charger). I just reset the clock and will check it tomorrow.

I got out the hardware for the trunk lid, including my rebuilt upper latch.

Then I use a tap to clean the holes for the hinges.

And the latch.

Working on the trunk lid reminded me that I have not yet dealt with the gap between the outer skin and the inner frame. Way back when I repaired some rust I dug out all the original foam. But now the frame provides little support to the skin.

I do have 3M pillar-filling foam, but not sure about using this--or anything else.

I decided to fill the trunk lid frame cavity with the 3M foam, at least around the center-rear near the latch.

But first, I found some leftover Eastwood cavity sealer.

I shot this into the rear cavity, and tilted the lid left and right. My hope is this will seep into the crimped edge and delay any rust.

While that was drying, I played with the 3M expanding foam. At some point I guess I bought an official 3M gun.

Here's an initial squirt of foam juice. It comes out of the mixing nozzle very liquid with just a few bubbles. This dot is about the size of a quarter.

After about a minute it doubled in size.

After about 10 minutes it was this big, and stiff. 3M claims a 10x expansion.

I shot about 1/3 of the tubes into the rear cavity. Looks like that was enough to fill it. I will have to carve a cavity for the latch plate nut.

Anyway, my hope is to make the trunk lid more rigid above the latch, since this is where I will push on the lid to close it.

One more thing, also with some left-overs, in this case some 3M seam sealer.

I used this to "glue" the frame to the skin, especially where the gap was open--up to almost 3/16" in places. Once this cures I will clean it up, and maybe do a quick paint touch-up.

Yeah, this should have all been done before painting, but better late than never, right?

Have you been able to clean and reuse those nozzle tubes? If so, what process to clean them for future use?

Thanks

I have not tried. Eastwood suggests attaching the nozzle to one of their cans of spray solvent.

I cleaned the seam sealer as much as possible, and will probably leave this as is for now.

New rubber stand-offs.

One in each rear corner.

Then I made room for the adjuster bolt on top of the latch pin.

I cut a round recess. But I will wait to install the latch until after the trunk lid is on the car.

After 48 hours the clock lost 4 minutes. I took this fuzzy photo at 8:22.

Anyone know if the clock running speed can be adjusted?

Yes, there is a small speed adjustment screw on the back. IIRC, counter clockwise to speed it up. That said, I've spent months trying to make small adjustments to dial mine in but it still loses or gains time over a week.

The clock is a self-winding clock so it is mechanical. The only thing the power does is periodically rewind the spring. I haven't timed how long it runs between winding events, but you can clearly hear when they happen. Seems like I've had the clock run for several minutes after disconnecting from power. It's a pretty neat contraption, but doesn't have the precision of a quartz crystal.

Thanks, Brent. Yeah, the 914 clock design has always tickled me. Not manual, not really electric. Do you think it was designed on a bet?

Anyway, I will attempt to adjust the running speed. On the back of the clock I found a very thin stud with a slotted end, and I turned this about 20° counterclockwise.

I reset the time to match my phone, and will check again tomorrow.

Easy to see why I competent shop would charge a bazillion dollars for this level of detail in restoring one of these cars.
It's not trivial to put one back together nicely.

Does that mean if I pay myself for the time I worked I will be rich?

No time to work on 914s today. I spent the afternoon replacing a hinge on the door of our fancy built-in microwave.

I did check the clock, and after about 24 hours, it seems correct.

Very cool....it's the little things....

Exactly, or so I have thought for many years, just not sure how to cash out?

BTW, project is looking great

Thanks.

And if you figure that out, let know.

Big day today! Car friends Chuck and Mike (Kansas 914) came over to help with some jobs that need extra hands (thanks, guys!).

First up, the windshield. Here we are checking the fit and adjusting spacers. Note that I tried to find Speed Yellow suction cups, but had to settle for Sunflower.

To get an even gap all around, I doubled up on the rubber spacers at the bottom.

Gap at the top.