Full Version: Rebuiding Inside-out
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Top looks fantastic Bob.
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 11 2022, 08:57 PM) 
Meanwhile, I drive down to Albuquerque today to pick up my new windshield. Local vendors were not interested or able to help me. Rich at 914Werke came through, with the option to collect at a wholesale glass distributor.
Here's how to transport glass when your truck has an oil leak (and your wife's Mercedes is more comfy to drive, anyway).
I did the same. Rich is good people also
I got my repro oil temp sender from Pelican (in a box tagged Sierra Madre). Now time for more detective work.
Resistance check, with the sender at room temperature.
And warmed up with my heat gun. Resistance has dropped as expected.
Meanwhile, here is the gauge with the key off.
And the key on (and the lead attached to the old sender, installed in the taco plate).
And the gauge with the sender lead grounded.
I rigged up the new sender, attached to the lead and grounded to the engine case.
Resistance at the gauge, with the sender warmed up in my hand.
Gauge reading--just barely more than original "null" reading.
More heat.
Much lower resistance.
Finally, some temperature indication.
Now I can swap the new sender for the old one. I guess its time for another oil change. Too bad the car is not on a rotisserie!
Now I can swap the new sender for the old one. I guess its time for another oil change. Too bad the car is not on a rotisserie!
I noticed another teaser from my 914: the brake lights were on all the time (with the key on).
Turns out the trigger arm for the brake light switch was under the ring on the piston rod. I guess this happened when I swapped master cylinders.
After draining the oil, I removed the cover to expose the old temp sensor.
And swapped in the new one.
And after a bit of fuss, and a dab of sealant, I re-installed the cover and connected the sensor lead.
The original connector for the oil temp lead (under the battery) finally gave up. The next time I have good access with the engine removed, I will replace it properly. For now I made a temporary repair.
I cannot thank you enough for the level of detail and fantastic photography throughout this build! Among the many things I have learned, I have found my most recent question answered.....where does that green wire go???? LOL!
So your pictures show it coming up out of the engine bay and I am assuming it goes through the centre tunnel and up to the gauges!
Happy Easter and thanks for all of your work!!!
Grant
So your pictures show it coming up out of the engine bay and I am assuming it goes through the centre tunnel and up to the gauges!
Happy Easter and thanks for all of your work!!!
Grant
QUOTE(NS914 @ Apr 18 2022, 09:12 PM)
I cannot thank you enough for the level of detail and fantastic photography throughout this build! Among the many things I have learned, I have found my most recent question answered.....where does that green wire go???? LOL!
So your pictures show it coming up out of the engine bay and I am assuming it goes through the centre tunnel and up to the gauges!
Happy Easter and thanks for all of your work!!!
...and my apologies, I realized I didn't know your first name, well Bob, thanks so much again!
Grant
Thanks, Grant. Glad you found some of this useful.
The green wire for the oil temp ducks into the harness below the battery, joins the other wires that enters the interior via the "snorkel", and comes out of the harness at the center console. It is the single connector between the doubles in the photo.
The console gauge harness then connects these to the gauges. In my car, the gauge harness wire for the oil temp gauge is white.
The green wire for the oil temp ducks into the harness below the battery, joins the other wires that enters the interior via the "snorkel", and comes out of the harness at the center console. It is the single connector between the doubles in the photo.
The console gauge harness then connects these to the gauges. In my car, the gauge harness wire for the oil temp gauge is white.
Thanks so much Bob! I nice to have easy work in amongst some of the more challenging jobs.
I need to replace the Brake light switch at the pedal and fiddle with the headlights....they are possessed re up and down....lights work though. LOL!
I hope you will not mind but I can see myself reaching out to you again soon...LOL
Grant
I need to replace the Brake light switch at the pedal and fiddle with the headlights....they are possessed re up and down....lights work though. LOL!
I hope you will not mind but I can see myself reaching out to you again soon...LOL
Grant
Happy to help. The headlights can be a challenge, but you should find some good info around here.
Time to start on the targa top. I should have all the new rubber and hardware I need.
I will have to recycle the old metal strips from the original rear weatherstripping. As many of you know, the short side pieces are bonded to the rubber on the original.
Step 1 is to separate the rubber from the metal.
Then I need to remove the PO black paint. I sure hope these are the last parts I need to restore. For this, I was able to get most of the paint off with my thumb nail.
And I got started on the cross strips.
Rear targa trim pieces all cleaned up.
And I got all the old glue off the weatherstrip track pieces. I need to strip these back to silver aluminum.
Wow Bob, you really are getting down the home stretch. Things are looking great as always.
More prep for top assembly. I am not sure if the tracks for the window top weatherstripping were originally silver anodized or black, but I want silver.
Paint thinner had no effect. Goofoff and acetone had some effect, but would take a loooong time. So I got out some paint stripper. A fist test removed some paint.
Paint thinner had no effect. Goofoff and acetone had some effect, but would take a loooong time. So I got out some paint stripper. A fist test removed some paint.
So I figure a saturated soaking might work faster. And I have the vinyl I removed from the PO version of the targa top in the trash, so...
Here's my trim strip, paint stripper, vinyl burrito.
While the burrito soaks, I started playing with the targa top rear weatherstrip. Here is the original side piece, with the mounting metal strip inserted into the "O" of the rubber. I think the original rubber was vulcanized onto the metal.
And here is a short bit of excess trimmed from the new rubber, as supplied by 914 Rubber. Note the thick flap section attached to the "O".
And here's my experimental modification: flap section cut off, and a slit into the "O".
And this is how it will fit onto the side metal. Note how the metal sits directly onto a raised flat on the side of the top, and how it projects above the flat along the rear. That rear flat is designed for the flap on the rubber. There is no space for the rubber flap on the sides.
Now I need to try gluing the modified rubber to the side metal strips.
Now I need to try gluing the modified rubber to the side metal strips.
I opened my mounting strip-paint stripper burrito, after about 24 hours.
It worked very well, and all the original paint was loose and easily scraped off with a plastic knife.
After a first rinse in hot water and some scrubbing with a brush, about 98% clean.
And after straightening and another scrape and rinse, at least 99% done.
The burrito was a great way to use the PO junk wrap and they came out looking fantastic.
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 21 2022, 08:24 PM)
So I figure a saturated soaking might work faster. And I have the vinyl I removed from the PO version of the targa top in the trash, so...
What a great idea, I will use some of my limited memory for that solution. I've reapplied all day long and not had that good of a result.
QUOTE(Shivers @ Apr 23 2022, 08:40 AM)
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 21 2022, 08:24 PM)
So I figure a saturated soaking might work faster. And I have the vinyl I removed from the PO version of the targa top in the trash, so...
What a great idea, I will use some of my limited memory for that solution. I've reapplied all day long and not had that good of a result.
Yeah, that was my experience, too. The new "safer" formulations of paint remover are pretty feeble.
Back to working on the top. I installed the side trim strips with new SS screws.
And then the new side rubber seals, where the upper window edge seats.
These are too thick to slide into place, so I first seated the outer lip.
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