Clutch cable.

Speedo cable, with a "boot" made from 3M rubber tape.

Muffler and new flange gaskets.

O2 cable, and then all the cables bundled and wrapped. Everything underneath done.

Here is photo proof that I took the rag out of the oil fill cavity. No dumb spill this time.

Oil filler in place. Tomorrow I will finish up.

Hoping for the best end of the leaks

OK, all the wires laid out and first connections.

And more photo evidence that I did not leave things inside other things.

ITBs, more cables, vacuum lines, and fuel lines.

OK, everything installed (except the air filters).

The last thing I did today was test the fuel system. I cycled the key on about 3 times and listened for the pump going on and shutting itself off. No visible or smellable leaks.

First test today. I cycled the ignition a few more times to check again for fuel leaks, and then started it. BTW, happy with the ITB injection and ignition that starts and idles on the first try.

I let it run for a few minutes, and then looked underneath--all good. Then I let it run for more than 20 minutes and it got up to temperature. Oil pressure reads good, and no idiot light--yet.

Once warmed up, I checked the airflow balance from left to right.

I shut it down and checked underneath. No leaks (yet) from the front galley plugs.

And no signs of leaking (yet) from the cooler seals, and the overlying sender.

I will NOT claim any success until I can drive it a few times.

Congrats!

Fudge! I checked underneath today after the engine cooled overnight. And this was waiting for me.

It looks like the stock screw-in galley plug is leaking. The other plugs and seals don't show any leaks so I guess that's something.

Not sure what I want to do now. I might see if I can R&R the plug without dropping the engine, at least all the way.

OK, fellow maniacs, I thought about this for a couple of days, including laying under the car to eye-ball and imagine, and I decided to try getting to the plug with the engine in place.

To do this, I removed the shift rod, all the heating ducts on the left side, the engine support cross bar, and the left front motor mount. At that point the access was not bad. (note the cross bar is still captured by the clutch cable)

And here's the little bugger*, aka stock threaded galley plug.

*I have used other words not fit for a family 914 website.

Even while unscrewing the plug, the leak is obvious, with oil-wet threads and no solid sealant.

OK, now I have you!

And we will deal with you later.

Is that a crack running under the plug? Its appears like it has something on it right below the plug? I hope and pray I am wrong.

Not a crack (I hope!) but a surface scratch and/or a casting mark.

OK, I decided to try sealing the plug today. First I made sure it was as clean as possible, and without any problems with threads.

Then I did the same for the galley opening.

I reverted to the sealant that worked the first time with this plug.

Plug installed, along with the engine mount and cross bar. I plan to let this sit for 24-48 hours, and then run the engine and check for leaks before I put and ductwork and other stuff back together.

Steel plug/aluminum case. I have seen this debate in the past ......

Fingers crossed, hope you got it this time. I think many of us are chasing a leak in this area, but I for one just leave it. Too many fish frying

In the hot oil?

Speaking of hot oil, I ran the motor up to temp and shut it off. No visible leak yet, but I will wait to see after it cools off.

waiting with anticipation....

And......no.

Just like last time, the morning after was not good news. Still looks like the galley plug is leaking. I will have to remove the cross bar again to be sure. That means dumping another oil fill with 0 miles.

Have you considered trying to find an Aluminum plug? The CTE will match the case material so you should have less gapping when the case gets warm. I don't know what thread size this is, but there are some aluminum galley plug kits available for VW motors.

You could also try thread tape instead of (or in addition to) the sealant you've been using. This stuff (available at big box home stores) will stand up to almost all fluids.
https://www.oatey.com/products/oatey-yellow...ape--1863212606

I admire your determination and appreciate you sharing your trials and tribulations!

-Aaron

@bkrantz

man that sucks! wow, i agree that maybe different plug will fix this?
- the rest of it is soo clean! i wrapped my cables just like yours, i am also fighting a leak on my new 2.1 motor and i think its seeping from the head-cylinder interface!! verified my new oil cooler seals and pump seal and galley plugs are dry this time along with the new RMS no leaks but man i know how frustrating it is.

I have a question, what are you using for modern EFI
I control, is it the Holley system?

Phil

Not a crack (I hope!) but a surface scratch and/or a casting mark.
[/quote]

The more I look at the pics (not just this one) the more it looks like a crack repair......that has failed. Probably over torqued at some point in engine's past? otherwise strange spot for a crack.

When i had the 4cyl race engine done on the scca car (Gumby) the builder used aluminum not steel. The cooling differential is too high.

Thanks.

I installed a MegaSquirt 2 with an integrated system put together by Mario at the Dub Shop. He supplied an initial tune file that started the first time, and then was modified by tuning on a dyno.

If I can ever get the oil leaks fixed, I will get back to tuning.

[quote name='Ottomotion' date='Jul 6 2023, 08:53 AM' post='3087704']
Not a crack (I hope!) but a surface scratch and/or a casting mark.
[/quote]

The more I look at the pics (not just this one) the more it looks like a crack repair......that has failed. Probably over torqued at some point in engine's past? otherwise strange spot for a crack.
[/quote]

Possible but I still think/hope not. See the photos below.

I removed the cross bar and left motor mount again. Here's the plug, which looks much like last time with oil showing around the lower half of the plug-case joint.

Under UV light before any cleaning. Most of the joint surrounding the plug looks oily.

As I unscrewed the plug, the sealant was uncured and very fluid. Again.

To check for a crack I used a mirror to get a look at the inside after cleaning it with solvent on a rag. I figure just like a normal crack test, any oil would act like a dye and light up the crack. I did not see anything like that.

Just like last time, with different sealant, the plug threads look oily and without cured sealant--and potentially leaky.

I have thought about this. As best I can tell the plug is M22 x 1.5, and the stock plug is steel. You are right: depending on the type of steel and and the aluminum alloy in the case, the thermal expansion will be 2 to 3 times higher in the case.

I cannot find an aluminum plug but did find a brass plug to order. Brass is much closer the the thermal expansion of aluminum.

Once I get this, I will use a "permanent" type sealer, like Form-a-gasket #1. If that does not work, I might go nuclear and use JB Weld.

Good luck, that is certainly a pesky annoying issue.