Mixed with a bit of dye, the oil glows orange.

I poured the entire bottle into the oil fill, and check the UV reaction.

I first ran the engine for about 30 seconds, to see if there is an obvious leak. Underneath with UV light I only found some residue that did not get cleaned off. And no orange.

I then did 60 seconds (idle), 5 minutes (idle), and 5 minutes with some revving up to about 2500 rpm. Nothing visible in UV underneath. I checked the oil on the dipstick and still got some orange, but maybe less than before, and more blue.

I then did two sessions of about 8 to 10 minutes, with running and revving at 3000 to almost 5000 rpm. The temp gauge got into normal warmed-up range, and my new oil pressure gauge showed about 40 psi at 4000 rpm.

Underneath I found a bit of new oil dripped down--but no orange under UV. At this point, any oil, new or old, showed only as blue. This now reduces the utility of the UV.

I spent a lot of time looking with UV, and took a lot of pictures. My best guess is that I have a leak from the upper oil galley plug. Way back I had the original plugs pulled and the case threaded. During my second rebuild, I installed the threaded plugs with Weld-on White Seal Plus thread sealant.

I also found a path of oil on the angular case piece that leads up to the oil cooler. This was not really wet, and the uncertainty about the dyed oil makes me unsure.

Bottom line, I am pretty sure that at least one threaded plug is leaking, and have a maybe on oil cooler seals. When it cools down I will look more carefully.

But I am disappointed that the UV dye gave up its color, and made it harder to recognize new leaks.

I feel your pain, built a 2056 and she runs great. Chasing an oil leak in the same area, I found one of the new aluminum tapped plugs was leaking. Completed an (attempted) repair in place. Thought I had it, but I am still getting a small leak in the same area.

Bob, Sorry you didn't have better luck with the UV dye. I have had good success in the past, so not sure why it didn't produce better results. I hope you can at least seal up the oil plug leak.

I took another look today, with regular light. Here is the biggest oil drip, which I think came from the galley plug.

Hard to see, but a possible second leak might be from the oil cooler seals.

And so I stripped everything off the top of the motor, and disconnected all wires, cables, and fuel lines.

This time I put a bright red rag in the oil filler cavity. You might remember that last time I tucked a paper towel in there, forgot about it, and then tried to fill the engine with oil and made a BIG mess.

Underneath, I removed the muffler, shift rod, and some sheet metal, and disconnected all the cables and half-shafts. I then got my plywood cradle and motorcycle jack in place.

A piece of cardboard on each side to protect the sheet metal from the nuts in the trailing arm pivots.

Then time to undo the cross beam bolts and the transaxle mount bolts, and lower the engine down. It took me about 4 hours, taking my time and with a few distractions.

Ready for the second attempt to find and fix oil leaks.

Man, I feel for you. Gotta love your determination chasing that leak.

I still have a couple on my car but they will have to wait until we drop the motor/transaxle to address them. Maybe over the winter that will happen. Right now I get 2 dime-sized drips when parked after a week or so. No where near how bad it was as we solved a few of the easy to do leaks.

Bob, I gotta say your love and dedication to this car is awesome. Don't give up, I know you will track this down

OK, here with go. Wait for a surprise(?) ending.

First I took off the front sheet metal, alternator, and blower housing. Looking around, not much I did not see from underneath.

Under UV, the same indication that the galley plugs leaked.

No indication of leaks from the front seal.

Some older-looking oil on the case flange and the left motor mount. I think this is left over from the topside spill.

Also left-over(?) oil on the rubber.

Again the front seal looks dry--yay!

Looks like the stock front plug is also leaking.

Oil pooled on top of the filter, almost certainly from above.

As planned I went to remove the oil cooler, but the bracket for the Hall sensor is in the way. So another part comes off.

The cooler seals actually look pretty good. But there's a clue from up above the cooler.

Yup, there's my creative plumbing for the dual oil pressure senders. I guess I have been in denial about the potential for this to leak.

No denying now--this looks like a real leak.

Looks leaky and cruddy.

I pulled all the sheet metal on the right side for better access.

And the oil filter mount. This gasket looks good.

And finally the galley plugs. The upper one looks wet.

And the lower one, too.

And the stock plug.

But the smaller plug on the right side, on the casting for the oil cooler mount, looks dry.

I have to think about what to do with the oil pressure senders, but replacing the galley plugs should be easy, right?

Here is what I used last time.

But I would rather try something different, probably this. Stay tuned.

I would see if you could find a 42 Draft Design relocation kit and go that way. No longer available new but put up a WTB here and one will show. Or at the very least, go with a hose (I think Tangerine can supply?) and get the splitter away from being directly in the block.

Personally, I've had good luck with the Permatex pictured but have not used it on galley plugs.

Great detective work Bob, it's probable a bit of oil is coming from several sources.

Congratulations on chasing that down to its likely source. That has to feel great!

Thanks, but I will not celebrate yet.

Starting to put things back together today. Step 1: clean the thread galley openings.

Step 2: clean the plugs.

Step 3: apply thread sealant.

Step 4: insert plugs and make TIGHT.

Including the plugs on the cooler casting boss.