How many of us do not have the drips?

if you are lucky as you drive it more the drips might go away.

recommissioned mine after 16 years standing and initially back on the road i had a leak from the front of the engine. i thought oh no - front seal.

after about 1-2 months of good driving getting it nice and hot for extended periods it stopped.

fingers crossed.

Thanks for the leak optimism, guys. Like I said, I have a plan to drop the engine over the long winter here. I think I can ignore it until then.

Yes, it turns the usual pedal-pumping method into a one man job (I think). In the past I have tried both gravity bleeding and pressure bleeding, both of which can also be done solo. Once on the road again, I will see how much difference it made.

I was poking around underneath my car again, and I noticed the side seals had pulled away from the sheet metal.

I know people have done different things to keep the rubber in place. I happened to have this clip on my bench.

This might work. And could look neater if I removed the levers.

Another minor problem: the heater lever will not stay open (to the rear). When driving, it keeps flipping forward.

So I increased the "slack" in the control cables for the heater valves.

I will admit to using a couple of those also... works well.

I decided to fit the rain hats, for the ITB air filters. These are from 914 Rubber, and substantial plastic (but no holes).

Left side is easy.

Got to use my new nut driver. This lives in the glove box.

But the right side hat hits the upper trunk torsion bar--by at least about an inch.

I cut out a section for clearance.

Note that the cut is not equal, since the torsion bar does not run "straight across" the car.

Better!

Then I messed with the engine sheet metal rubber surround, that does not like to stay in place. One problem: the corners are not neatly mitered.

Better.

Now for the secret clips.

I put one at each end of each rubber section, and removed the wire handles.

I wonder what these might be good for.

Wow, it's been more than a month. I have done a few 914 things in that time, and posted o some short threads. That included trying to get more effective action from the brakes, some miscellaneous tinkering, and just driving. I forgot how much fun driving a 914 can be, especially with my massive 125 hp.

And another local cars and coffee. We had to do without our annual Labor Day car show, so the Sept C&C had a People's Choice award, and my car finished second.

Anyway, I got back to work today, trying to clear the final few lists.

First, I adjusted the fog lights. I intend to use these as DRLs, and so I aimed them a bit higher. Note that these have my replacement LED bulbs installed.

Speaking of lights, a friend pointed out that my reverse lights did not work. Sure enough, with the key and lights on, and the trans in R, no reverse lights in back.

I pulled the connectors from the trans switch and jumped them.

With the key on, the reverse lights work now. Must be a bad switch.

To address my brake issue, I ordered a set of Texture pads, with original style street compound. I initially installed Poterfield R4-S pads, a performance pad that might need more heat to work well.

So, take the Porterfield pads out of the front calipers...

And replace with Textar pads, which are quite a bit thinner.

The rear pads are about the same thickness.

But they need to have one hole enlarged for the retaining pin.

A few minutes of drill press action.

And the new pads are ready to bed and try out.

I did not take any photos, but I also adjusted the front wheel bearings. Both sides had loosened up just a bit.

At least I could cross one thing off the list. I figure I will get to some of these over the winter.

Curious why the front pads are so much thinner??? Hate to see all the little things on your list, but makes me happy to keep watching your post.

Not sure, Howard. I think some of the part numbers for 914-4 front pads are also used for 911 rear pads. In any case, I do not expect to wear them out too quickly.

I removed the reverse switch from the transaxle, along with the actuating pin. Lube does leak from the small pin hole, but very slowly.

Here's the pin, installed in the transaxle switch port. I confirmed that putting the trans in reverse did push the pin outward.

Then I did a bunch of measuring. I figured out that the pin action was about 0.02" too short to actuate the switch.

A simple fix: I removed the thick washer/spacer from the switch, and replaced it with some aviation gasket sealer. That moved the switch inward against the pin.

Success! When the gear shift is in reverse, the lights come on. Another item off the list.

I did a first drive on the Textar pads today, first with some easy miles and braking, and then cursing with some light brake dragging. After that, I went through some repeated hard braking to start bedding in the pads.

They feel like they have a bit more grab, but I will have to drive more to confirm.

Sorry for the absence. Life got busy with lots of non-914 things.

Anyway, to get going on progress again, I took the car back to the paint shop. When I picked it up (2 years ago!) they promised to touch up and polish the paint when I got done.

When I got home, I decided to take advantage of the empty garage space, and sort through all the piles, bags, and boxes of parts. These came off the shelves.

Plus these on my cart.

Once I make an inventory, I will separate the spares I want to keep, and then list all the stuff that might be useful to others (for sale or free). Stay tuned.

Going without your thread was like what I imagine quitting heroin would be like. Glad to see a posting and looking forward to pictures once she returns from paint touch-up and polish.

Busy with things like your new granddaughter? Hate to say it but she will probably be growing like a weed, but far cuter I am sure

Busy from a distance, but we get to visit soon. I got a picture recently with her Porsche PJs on.

I sorted through about half the pile today, mostly engine parts. I will have an inventory and Fore Sale list up soon.

I did find the box of stuff that came from the interior. That's 39 cents and a cheap 10mm wrench!

Mission accomplished! 3 shelves of 914 stuff down to 1-1/2, and separated into stuff to keep and stuff to divest. Now I need to figure out some fair values for the decent stuff.