Speaker mounted to board.

Board and speaker mounted to pod.

Pod, board, and speaker mounted to car.

Rock On

Now I just need a source!

Today, I played with the frunk floor, starting with what came in my car. This looks essentially black.

First, I undid some PO staples along the rear edge. This exposed a flap of perlon, and the original(?) gray color.

After I removed all the perlon, I exposed the plywood, that I think is OE.

But it looks just a little warped.

The OE plywood fits almost precisely sitting on the floor, without a spare tire in place. Of course, this means a very sloppy fit when the plywood sits on top of a spare.

Speaking of spares, this is what came in my car, a Sears Guardsman in 5.6 x 15.

That's some serious tread--almost 4 inches wide!

Here's what I am thinking about: a larger plywood piece, that will fit more precisely while sitting on top of the spare tire.

I really like the idea for the new frunk floor, I think it will be much better than the old one perched on top of the spare.

Thanks. It should be more stable and usable. Plus I get to make another "improvement".

I'm going the phone to Bluetooth into the equalizer attached to an amplifier. Everything is out of sight.....mann

I have a similar idea--stay tuned (get it?).

More hardware arrived, so I can finished my fender liner installation.

Here is the right rear liner, with my rubber shield mod.

Liner installed. If you missed my earlier posts, the rubber covers the gap between the liner and the inner fender wall.

Then a bit of trivia. I dug out the jack tube covers.

After a bit of clean-up.

I finally got out the targa top. The outside actually look OK.

At some time, a PO had it covered with vinyl. It has a few small nicks.

But the vinyl is pulling away, especially along the "rain gutters".

Inside, the front latches and pad look OK.

But most of the rubber, and one mounting block are sad.

Here's the inside all stripped. I will take the vinyl off the outside, and then figure out how to refinish it.

Detail of the PO vinyl covering, wrapped over the trailing edge.

I undid the various glues: contact cement over the main surface, red glue where the vinyl was wrapped under, and black silicone along some edges.

Pulling the vinyl off. Surprise! Some earlier damage.

De-skinned. More damage spots and lots of dried up contact cement, that was pretty impervious to all the solvents I tried.

After an hour with a brass wire brush. Next, I will visit my paint shop and see if they can try to duplicate the original splatter finish.

While waiting to get my engine case back, I found another diversion. When I got the body back from the paint shop, I noticed a few seams that needed more sealing. For various reasons, I did not take action early on--my bad. I went back and forth on leaving it alone, but finally decided to do something.

So, my half-baked and late plan: use some brush on seam sealer, followed by brush on primer and paint.

Here's where I started, on the right side along the edge of the new floor panel I welded in. On the right side, you can see the open seam edge. On the left, I started brushing on sealer, and then stippling it to look a little like the remaining sprayed-on sealer.

I did both sides, plus seam across the floor between the new rear section and the original front section, and the front floor corners where I welded in patches.

My engine case is back in the house (garage actually, but I did use the kitchen sink and sprayer to wash out any dirt and debris--don't tell my wife). Thanks to European Motorworks for rapid and quality work.

George and crew did the decking, with a wide enough cut so my AA cylinders can sit flat.

And also did a line bore, to 0.25 mm oversize. Now I can hope again that everything will be straight.

I got out all the studs I had removed and cleaned.

And I got started installing the studs in the case halves. Good thing I took notes on locations.

Instead of going original splatter finish with your roof panel, consider this.....

A nice leopard vinyl might make your car really growl???
If that is too bold for you, perhaps it would work as your headliner.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Of course you might attract some of the local riff raff unfortunately.

Click to view attachment

Did you remember to get your thrust bearing cut?

The work on your engine looks great. I just took mine over there a couple of weeks ago also. They are great guys to deal with.

Love all the picture, keep them coming.

OK, now that's just silly. But maybe a shag finish?

I got to work today, since I want to get the enginery assembly done ASAP so I can measure deck height.

Here are the cylinder studs ready, and new thread sealant.

Then the threaded plugs.

Engine case halves ready.

And the right half mounted on the stand again.

Now to replace the #3 bearing. This is from my previous build attempt, correct for a standard size case saddle. Of course to change this bearing, I had to pull the timing gear and other stuff on the crank nose.

Since I did not want to remove the con rods, and deal with the crank plus rods on my press, I rigged up a gear puller. It took little force to pull the distributor gear, and just a bit more to pull the timing gear.