But the problem turns out to be one of the bushings.

At some point the nylon(?) bushing stopped turned, and wore through on one side. This eliminates the pressure the bushings impose on the aluminum arm. Time for the rebuild kit with new bushings.

But feeling optimistic, I tried to install the bushing rotated 180°. That worked for exactly 1 door closing and opening before the bushing spun around to the worn position.

Then I dug into the trunk lock. When I set this up last year, the key worked fine with the lock on the bench. Now the key does not turn.

Lock back on the bench. Still does not work.

All apart.

Time to fine-tune the lock sliding pins. When I got this lock last year, I moved the pins around to get the best fit possible, but then had to shorten a few. The red pins stick out just a bit.

Thank god , it's not just me that this happens to.
Kevin

I have found removing the latch/locking mechanism works well to clean the 1/2 century of crud and then lube. Adding lube seems to compound the issue

The Schadek pump I installed on my last build had a very thin paper gasket.

Yup, the foolish optimist club. That might include all 914 owners.

I had the inner mechanisms out, solvent-soaked, and then replated during my build. I gave them a light dose of grease before installing. Now I have progressed to the max grease stage.

Thanks. Any other viewpoints out there?

Includes me for sure

Returning to the oil pump "leak", I have a new Schadek on the shelf waiting for the time to get the next build going. Today I measured the thickness of the paper cover gasket - in the .003 range. Hope this helps

I am having the same issue with small oil leaks, watching this thread, thanks in advance Bob

Back to 914 work today. I have been distracted all week by snow, with shoveling adventures on Sunday, Monday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday. I have about 2500 sq ft of driveway, and feel stubborn enough to usually do it by hand. But this week I got the machine out.

Anyway, I finished evening out the slide pins on the trunk lock.

Here's the lock assembled.

And installed in the trunk wall.

It works! Now I can lock (and unlock) the trunk.

Back to working on the door locks. I removed the right door interior hardware and door card.

With the plastic sheet removed (and destroyed) I greased the lock mechanism. Really greased it.

Just like the left side, the key in the exterior handle now locks the door (and the interior lock tab closes flush).

And then the key easily unlocks the door.

To see if the door card interferes with the locking rod, I temporarily reinstalled it.

Still works!

And as others suggested, I checked for interference from the screw that holds the plastic surround for the interior lever. With the screw in place, the lock still works fine.

OK, that's one more task done.

I got these door stay rebuild kits delivered yesterday.

Pretty easy to strip the stays apart, and remove the old arms, springs, and rollers.

One side rebuilt.

And installed. Now this door has two firm opened positions. And I can remove the blue tape X to remind me not to open the door too far without the stay.

I actually did both sides.

Back to working on oil leaks, and the pump. I set up my digital caliper with a plunge adapter.

Measuring from the face of the pump to the tops of the gears.

I got measurements from .000" to .002", with most in the range of .0005" to .001"

The gasket I have in my supply measures .0045" thick.

As I understand, optimum gear clearance is .003", so I need a thinner gasket.

Before quitting, I took out the clock. I am still bummed that it worked for months, and then quit.

And I pulled the speedometer, too. This read about 10 mph off, and the odo never worked. I still have not decided if I want to try this myself or send it off (or source another one).

OK, time to start another project.

I want to add an oil pressure gauge. And I want to keep the idiot light.

From what I understand, the VDO dual sender triggers the idiot light at 7 psi, which is too high. Better to keep the stock pressure sensor, which triggers at 3 psi.

I also know that one popular solution is to mount a T-fitting on a flex hose. But the flax hose makes me nervous, so I want to try a solid approach. That can have other problems, but I have some ideas--have to see how things work out.

Anyway, here is a VDO brass adapter.

A trial fitting. Yes, the stock sensor will live inside the air ducting, and will need an extension for the wire.

A view from above the sheet metal. The stock hole will probably need enlarging for the VDO sender. That was supposed to get delivered yesterday, but my local USPS is full of excuses.

The pressure gauge will also need a new wire from the engine to the center console. Here I started the new yellow wire through the snorkel. Why yellow? Duh.

Into the center tunnel.

Up to the shift console.

Ready for the gauge.

And ready at the engine end.

A bit more progress (or planning) for the oil pressure system. Here is the VDO sender. I got the dual sender, even if I don't use the low pressure trigger.

The hole in the sheet metal is tool small, but not by much. I will worry about this later.

Here's the configuration I have in mind. I know this has a bit of weight unsupported, and could lead to fatigue.