Brent, maybe it was longer than that. I do know I got good at bolting and unbolting the door pocket. I also remembered a few more cuss words.

Thanks, Pedro. When I was thinking about exterior color, I also had this interior color scheme in mind--but no idea if it would look really good.

Sorry guys! I guess we are all enablers and co-dependents.

I don't mind--good luck.

I got back to my initial rough home-style alignment, now focused on getting the front and rear toe close to spec. First step is laying out a pair of parallel strings, equally distant from the car on both sides.

Lots of trial and error, measure and adjust, to get side-to-side measurements equal, but not front to rear, since the rear track is wider, while keeping the strings parallel.

At that point, I measured the distance from the leading and trailing points on each wheel rim to the string, and subtracted the difference to get the initial toe (in mm). You can see I have toe out on 3 wheels (especially both fronts) and a bit on the left rear.

Next, time to start making corrections.

I got the front toe set. Pretty easy: loosen the clamps on the tie-rods, twist to adjust toe.

Setting the rear toe is more work, or at least muscle. After loosening the outer pivot mounting, I was able to man-handle the wheel to twist the entire thing and change the toe. It took several attempts to loosen, twist, tighten, and measure.

Here's the best I can do with string and rulers: 2.5 mm toe-in front, and 1.0 mm toe-in rear. That should roughly match the spec settings.

Then I removed the front wheels to get access to tighten the clamps on the tie-rods. Seems so easy to remove the lightweight 914 wheels!

Then I checked the camber again. Everything looked OK except the left front, so I fixed that.

That's what I ended with for camber. I have no easy way to check front caster, so that will wait for the alignment shop (where-ever that is).

I then checked the rear tire-fender clearance. The right got better and looks fine, but the left got tighter--a bit too tight.

Here's my approach to ease the fender out a bit: gently lower the car onto a strip of 1/2" plywood propped against the tire. I did that progressively a few times while shifting the plywood around.

Much better.

Even closer! The only thing I must get done before I can test drive is actually installing the windshield.

I think I have everything (including some brush-on butyl primer). I just need some more hands.

Gee Bob, if I wasn't all the way in Texas I would love to lend you a pair of hands to do the windshield install. Car is really coming together. It won't be long and the video posts of the first drive will show up here....

Windshield installation, Step 1: clean the channel with adhesive remover.

Step 2a: mask the channel.

Step 2b: paint the channel with butyl primer.

Step 3: clean the glass, especially the edge that will contact the butyl.

You have started it, correct? Does the dynamat work or does everyone do it because, everyone does it?

@nivekdodge yes it works great, adds a little weight but definitely improves road noise and for me the best improvement was the doors. They went from tin can to super solid, I have a two 6.5 speakers and a 8 inch subwoofer on top of msds headers and no weird vibrations or tons of noise or reverb

Thanks, you never hear if it works or not

Kevin

Do you mean starting the engine? So far only in the garage, so I can't swear that my firewall system works . On the inside, starting from the painted firewall I have Dynamat, Dynaliner, and perlon carpet. On the engine side I have a layer of foil backed with insulation. I do know that I can thump on the firewall and the sound does not resonate though.

Here's the windshield after painting the butyl primer with the masking tape removed.

Next, I fitted the lower (inside) windshield seal.

I notched the ends so they tuck under the bottoms of the A-pillar pads.

Like this. Note that I had to remove this strip during the installation of the windshield trim clips.

Next I got out the windshield trim kit. This contains the 3 sections of the trim plus all the small pieces.

The small pieces include another batch of (aftermarket) plastic retaining clips, rubber spacers, and 3 aluminum trim junctions. Note that I plan to use the factory clips since I have read they are more robust and reliable.

I also dry-fit the trim. As others have said, this stuff is VERY flexible. Thats good since I had to do some gentle bending on all 3 pieces.

Step 4: OK, time for the retaining clips. I had one spare of the factory clips.

My method: first dip the prongs into some soapy water.

Then use a 5mm 1/4" socket on an extension and soft mallet to tap the prongs into the hole.

And then seat the plastic stud with a pin punch. Easy, right?

But my first attempt failed. I hit the clip too hard (and probably unevenly) trying to seat the prongs, and the clip split. After that, I had no spares.

The next attempt worked. I learned to initially tap just hard enough to get the prongs into the hole, then a slightly harder tap to seat the body of the clip against the sheet metal--and then stop. In order to set the plastic pin, I tapped the punch just a little harder with a stiff mallet.

My luck held for all 19 clips.

I then taped up around the recess to protect the paint from the edges of the glass, and from accidental touches of the butyl rope.

Now I am ready for 914 friends.

Wish I was near to lend a hand.

Same here

Thanks, guys--I really appreciate it. I have some expert help lined up for Thursday.

I took a break from 914 work today, to build a new shop table.

Not fancy and probably overbuilt, but I figure heavy is a good thing.

I topped it with a layer of replaceable masonite. Here it is as part of my new garage layout. Still more to do.

And for now I moved out my old 2' x 8' workbench. I built this 30 years ago in the garage of the first house I owned, and dragged it from Texas to Alaska to Texas and then Colorado.