Turns out all the old shims I took out of the motor are .014", so I need to order a .012" (.30 or .32 mm) shim.

Back to the sound system. I will add a noise filter on the power supply line. By the way, the Clarion unit requires both a power supply, that I rigged through a "dummy" defroster switch, and an illumination supply, that I connected to the output of fuse 5, which has power only when the lights are switched on. I tapped fuse 12 for the main power supply, which is hot always. The defroster switch should prevent the audio system from draining the battery when not in use.

I had a slight detour in setting up the audio system and center console. After I screwed the rear console bracket to the top of the tunnel, I ran my bore scope inside to make sure the screw tip was not too close to anything else. That led me to discover that the heater lever light wire was fouling on the shift tube. For better access, I removed the console and then the gear shift lever. That led me to discover that the bottom of the shift assembly was making contact with the clutch tube when the lever was full to the right. You can see where the yellow has worn away, revealing the original red paint.

I did some gentle prying on the clutch tube to bend it to the left. After that the gear shift lever can go full right (against the stop in the shift housing) without the base touching the clutch tube.

And then we got back to wiring the audio system. And by we, I mean my son, who is visiting for a few days--and is much more flexible than me.

Another add on: foam speaker baffles on the back side of the pods. They may not do much, but cost only $9.

By quitting time we had all the power and ground wires connected, and tested.

Big day for the audio system. We got all the wires connected, including the speakers. The brown wire here is the temporary antenna.

Control box connected.

And...success! I connected the battery, pulled the window defogger switch, and turned on the power at the control box, and got static on AM. But after switching first to weather band and then FM, we heard multiple stations clearly. We then plugged my iPhone 7 into the USB cable, and after a minute the Clarion connected. I could then stream music and other audio, and also operate streaming from the Clarion control box.

I then finished making a thing, and covered my support for the control box with a scrap of black vinyl.

I need to cut the shine on the vinyl a bit to match the recovered arm rest box.

I then un-made a thing. When the upholstery shop recovered the shift panel, they put a new layer of vinyl over the old. That double layer made the holes for the gear shift boot and the heater lever guide too small. So I removed the new vinyl expecting to simply cut the old vinyl away from the holes.

But then I found a bigger problem, with some ancient decay in the 5 mm plywood.

Thought about using the twins to hook up my electrical under my dash.
They might have been 2 at the time.
Guess the headlight switch might have started the engine and the radio would have activated the passenger ejection seat.


You might skate with your son doing it.

Well, I am trusting my unibody integrity to his welding skills, so if he gets the audio wiring mixed up I will have other things to worry about.

I had time today to make a new wood panel for the gear shift surround. I used 5mm MDF to replace the original 5mm plywood.

We finished the audio system today. I put foam baffles on the back of the speakers to reduce stray echos.

Left speaker installed for real.

And right.

We tried to make all the wiring tidy.

Here you can see the hidden audio system.

But open the arm rest...

Turn it on, and hear radio (weather, in this shot).

Or plug in an iPhone, and stream music.

The remaining task is a real (but hidden) antenna.

Oh the horror....a decent sound system.
Why didn't I think of that????
Looks great Bob, like everything else you've done with this car.

Thanks, Doug. At least one part of my car makes (good) noise by itself. BTW, my son was arguing for a sub woofer, but I will wait and see. Could be space under the dash where the normal radio goes, in a custom box pointing down.

With some luck I can start focusing on the engine soon. Today, I got the invitation to enter our annual Durango Labor Day car show. Last fall I expected to have the 914 running in time. Maybe next year?

Back home from a few days away--and no 914 play.

While I was gone, some new crankshaft shims arrived.

One of these should do the job. (Turned out the 0.30mm is the 0.012 shim I needed.)

New shim in place--that makes the proper 3.

New rear seal.

Seal in place. It was a snug but not super tight fit.

New flywheel bolts and plate. This might be over-kill but some sources suggest not re-using bolts that have been torqued before.

Flywheel mounted and bolts torqued.

Then I got out the parts for the oil pressure valves, and new seals.

I got to use my new triple-square bits.

Small valve installed, with a 14 mm triple-square.

And back to my home-made tool for the larger valve retaining plug.

Installed.

And then the strainer. I re-used the paper ring gaskets, but new got new crush rings.

Strainer and cover in place. The blue tape is a reminder that the drain plug is only finger tight.

Any tips on getting the rear main seal in place? That's coming up on my list of things to do.

Thanks!

I was able to push mine into place--a strong push but I did not need to use a hammer or other impact until the last couple of mm. By then it was in straight.

Parts for the oil temp sensor, including the taco plate.

Another temporary installation.

Then the oil pump stuff, plus new gaskets and sealing nuts.

I had previously measured everything, but decided to check again.

Here's what I measured, and the calculated clearances.

To get a bit more clearance, I used the thicker black gasket, which should add about 0.010" when compressed.

Gasket in place, with a thin smear of sealant.

Pump in place, with a very thin smear of sealant on the face, and assembly lube on the gears.