Man, if I had one of those "dry ice" detailers close by, I'd give him a shot at cleaning up the backsides of these wheels.
Hard to believe that stuff is on there so hard.

Nasty stuff, and harder than brass (I tested a brass bristle brush in a small spot).

Where I live, fancy stuff like dry ice is never close by.

Gotcha.
The backsides of your wheels are now more than presentable.
Good job there.

Home from the tire shop.

I need one of those Facom wrench's because.........well just because.

Here's one source:
https://www.grainger.com/category/tools/soc...et-end-wrenches

I bought 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm when I lived in France in the 80s. That covers 99% of Porsche hardware, but now I want to fill in the rest--like you said just because.

I did one more round of brake bleeding, and saw at least one good sized air bubble come out. I think I am done with bleeding until I can road test.

Then I decided to fix something that has been bothering me. On the rear bumper, the fit is not equal from side to side. Here is the left that looks good, with the rubber tight against the body and the chrome showing about 5/8 inch gap.

But on the right side, the rubber is off the body work, and the gap along the chrome is about an inch--enough to see behind the bumper.

I took the bumper off, and removed the dog bone. It is about 7/8 inch thick.

I trimmed about 1/4 inch from each insert tube.

And also about 1/4 inch from the rubber.

Skinny dog bone ready for installation.

With the bumper back on, the rubber now sits tight to the bodywork, and the gap along the chrome is better.

While fiddling with mine stuff, I also did not like the tight clearance between the tail pipe and valance. I can wiggle the engine and exhaust and make slight contact.

I removed the muffler bracket and lengthened the holes about 1/8 inch.

That's enough to lower the muffler and tail pipe--no more contact.

Almost cleared the list on the right side of the board.

I finally remembered to check to see if I cured the flashing brake system warning. I turned the key on and...no.

When I installed the replacement 19 mm master cylinder, I included the original 2-lead switch. I think (???) I tested this before putting it in, but now the switch is stuck "on", and connects the leads and grounds the circuit. Of course, this type of switch has no external reset button.

So now I have to replace the switch and bleed the brake system again.

I dug out the switch that cam with the new MC, but this one seems to have the opposite problem: no matter the position of the plunger, the switch does not ground the single lead.

Enough of that. Let's get back to starting the engine and EFI tune. Step 1 is to calibrate the engine advance relative to the EFI setting.

With the engine at fast idle, and the EFI set to constant 10° advance, here's what I measured at the blower fan pulley: 22°.

To adjust that, the TunerStudio software has an adjustment (Tooth Angle). A bit of trial and error, and...

Success. The EFI and engine are both at 10° advance.

Readings with a rough fast idle. The advance is set back to an initial table so it can vary with rpm. And the "coolant" temp (actually the cylinder head temp, with a new sensor on the right head in the stock location.

For an initial idle speed setting, I got out my new EMPI synchronizer.

I backed out the idle screw on the right intake to get the rpm down and airflow to 8.

And did the same on the left.

By this time, the "coolant" was pegging the default software setting--I need to change this.

But the stock oil temp gauge still has not risen.

Time for an updated "final" list. I know I said this before, but

Great progress- very cool software for the engine.

What "coolant" sensor do you use?
I have always been curious as to how head temp is adjusted for in the coolant portion of FI programming.

Its a modified GM sensor (part of the Dub Shop kit). I am just starting on the learning curve--ask me again in a few months.

Still performing basic checks. The fuel pressure should be 43.5 psi--looks good on the gauge.

The temp gauge now is set for air-cooled head temps. I let it warm up a bit, running for about 15 minutes, and the head got to about 250°.

I need to work on my exhaust ducting. Its a long way to the outside.

And my aluminum dryer ducting is pretty fragile--and leaky.

And it gets chilly with the garage doors open, even on a warmer day like today.

Still no real response on the stock temp gauge.

Since everything in the EFI seems to be working, I worked on making the wires neater and tied down.

Not as surgical as @tygaboy , but better.

When I checked the tail pipe clearance after yesterday's hot-cold cycle, it was back where it was, and too close.

I used a jack to brace the rear of the heat exchangers, and then "leaned" on the tail pipe to induce a little bending.

I then adjusted the muffler bracket again. Better clearance (at least for now).

@bkrantz Are you going to install a chrome tip? I had a stock chrome tip stretched on a pipe bending machine (Ben's) and then he welded to nuts onto it so I could secure it to the tailpipe. Looks stock and I love it.

Interesting idea--do you have any photos?

Have you done the old grounding trick or does that not work on these gauges?

@bkrantz - Here you go:

Click to view attachment

Thanks. Looks good.