I got out my junk soldering iron, and applied a bit of local heat.

All the tabs now stick out.

And the vents snap tightly into the dash.

Then I decided to complete the engine case assembly.

Here is the Web Cam lube--in the tube.

And on the cam. This establishes a red theme for the assembly!

I replaced the oil pickup tube O-ring, and gave it a bit of assembly lube (red).

And installed the pickup.

Then new rubber edge seals on the baffles.

And installed that.

Then came lots of cleaning of the mating surfaces on both case halves.

I remembered the new cam plug.

And I got out the case hardware.

Here's the right case half with the through bolts installed.

As recommended by Dan at Competition Engineering, I got this Permatex sealant.

Which completes the red assembly theme.

Cam plug installed. And I remembered to add more sealant on the other case half in the plug seat.

With all the hardware installed and torqued, the case is done! And the crank spins!

Awesome progress...Also glad you remembered the new cam plug, forgetting that tends to cause rather large oil leaks...

I almost forgot it, since I was maneuvering the left case half to lower it down, and had a helpful burst of memory--and then stopped to put the plug in.

And I overdid the sealant. I had some fun today cleaning off the excess.

Today was oil pump day. I have played with it so much it seemed like an old friend.

As expected, the case interferes with one corner of the stamped steel cover.

A quick trim with a cut-off wheel and then some grinding to smooth, and ready to go on.

But first I installed the pump body and gears. The body was a tight fit to press into the case.

I used the sealing pump nuts--not sure if really necessary.

And then buttoned-up with the cover.

wrong post

Awesome work, as usual. I also spent tons of time with my 26mm oil pump...but I wouldn't call it a friend. Definitely the most challenging part aside from the bearing tolerances.

Question...did you check your oil pump cover for flatness? I had heard that they can be somewhat warpy from the stamping, and indeed mine was a good 1/16 convex out before I lapped it flat on a piece of glass.

Thanks, Ian. I did check it visually against a flat reference, but not with extreme accuracy. I guess I will find out if it does not seal.

Time to check the crankshaft end play.

I started with a new flywheel. The original was badly scored and grooved.

I have the 3 shims from the tear down.

I installed 2 shims on the end of the crank.

And then the new flywheel with the old bolts.

When I went to tighten the flywheel bolts I remembered a tool I made 30 years ago, and dug around in the tool chest for this.

It still works.

With the bolts tight, I made sure the crank had some axial play. Then I mounted my dial gauge and zeroed it.

And then shifted the crank. I repeated this about a dozen times, and got a consistent axial play of 0.015".

For the desired play of .004", I need a third shim .011".

But the shim I have measures .0135". Time to order a new shim.

Meanwhile, back to working on the body trim. I got out the targa inside pads and hardware.

And got these installed so I can mount the aluminum channels for the rubber trim.

Here's the thin butyl strip material I found, 1/8 x 1/2", and one of the aluminum trim strips that goes on the leading edge of the targa sail.

New stainless screws.

Trim strip installed with the later of butyl underneath.

While in the trim mood, I got out the strips that go on the A-pillars.

More new stainless screws.

Trim installed with butyl.

One last detail today: new ski rack tab receivers.

Installed in the windshield frame top.

I got a long day in the garage today, starting with a few more bits on the engine case.

Thanks to pilothyer, I have a replacement for the missing small oil pressure relief valve.

A light smear of assembly lube, and I put the piston and spring into the cylinder in the left case half.