My first support design. I figure something like this should damp vibrations enough. This is easy since I don't have a distributor.

Meanwhile, I got a new oil seal (and spare) for the crank end. These are Erling, for those keeping score.

I popped out the old seal, and discovered another potential leak.

The case seam in the seal recess is not even at the bottom. You can see a small raised edge, that is obvious by feel. The top is fine.

About 10 minutes with some 600 grit sand paper.

Now the recess is even across the seam.

Axially?

I am not sure if I would be concerned with this. Did you get the oil pump straightened out?

Yes, the offset was axial. I was concerned that the small step would keep the rubber on the outside of the seal from seating in full contact and could weep oil.

Time to start putting things back together. First I dressed the outside sealing surface of the fan hub with some 800 grit.

Smooth.

Then I got the seal ready to install, with a bit of grease on the sealing lip.

Then a couple of dabs of gasket sealant in the seal recess on the case seams.

Turns out my PVC pipe wheel cap tool is the right size for seating the seal.

Seal fully seated and bottomed out against the internal recess.

Hub with a bit of grease.

Torquing the hub retaining nut to 3.2 m-kg.

With a big screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold the crank in place.

Next the oil pump cover.

A thin smear of sealant on the gasket.

Both sides.

New sealing nuts.

Cover in place and torqued down.

New oil filter, truly tightened this time. All sealed up--I hope.

Engine mount brackets installed.

Checking the fit of my dual-oil pressure sensor set-up. The oil cooler duct requires the stock sensor to face forward, but the new VDO sensor sits nicely above the duct.

After a bad experience with one years ago, I don't use the flex hose either. And I use the stock idiot light sender. So what I do is to make sure the big gauge sender lays on the engine tin, and I use a big adel clamp around it that is attached to the tin. Then I put the stock sender on top.

Hope that helps.

Clay

Your pics are so clear, enjoying watching the progress.
Cheers

Thanks, Clay. How tall is your T-fitting?

More fitting and thinking. In this configuration, the VDO sender sits just above the tin. Actually, it just makes contact, which might provide enough support to dampen vibration.

Got to think on this a bit.

Meanwhile, I cleaned up the intake surfaces on the heads.

Question for the 914World experts: how critical to use stock insulation gaskets, or use the fiber gaskets that came with my ITB EFI kit?

Last thing today: mount the engine cross bar and get ready for installing the sheet metal, blower housing, and the ITBs.

I don't like those thick gaskets ,over time they compress and leak,had this with my 1.8 motor after fitting twin Weber DCNV's,found this issue when I pulled the motor as I saw the fuel sweating out on the base of the manifolds.
Engine had been running rough @ idle and hard to tune ,replaced with the factory type FI ones and never had any further issues.
With the thick gasket it would be tempting to pinch them up and risk pulling head studs,no need to worry with the OEM ones as they stay put with factory torque,I like to add a little non setting sealer and use Hylomar blue...great product,cheers.

nice write up and detailed documentation, i am paying close attention because i also only had 2500 miles on my new build and i am pulling it due to the possible RMS seal leak again after only 9 months since doing it last spring. i am going to recheck all the head bolt torque as well, but i have a feeling my RMS is leaking for same reason your front seal was.
What sealer did you use on that lower seam on the front crank seal? i was afraid of doing any sanding or prep to the surface last time but was maybe an issue. Also
yes we are keeping track, on what seal is used, the leaking one now that i put in last spring was a 12mm VR one so i have the Ehrling for front and RMS and thats what is going in this weekend, along with also resealing that oil pump seal and now it looks like my supposed new oil cooler was also seeping out oil from a seam in the middl of the cooler too. .hoping i can get this thing fixed. at least none of my push rod tubes leak!

anyway keep posting and updating as you go thanks for the guidance!!!

Phil

I would let the sensor float. Rubbing against the tin would damage it. Also, I don't think that would really "dampen" the vibration.

Thanks, Phil. I used Permatiex aviation #3.

Good point. I will have to see how the final assembly looks. I will probably add a bracket like I mocked-up in an earlier post.

Can't do much on the engine, since I can't put the sheet metal on until I get the oil pressure sensor sorted and installed. I did bolt on the starter motor.

On to some other tasks. I am still not sure how I will handle the speedometer/odometer, but somebody has had this apart before.

I also pulled the left door handle, since the lock sometimes resists turning the key.

More tweaking of the cylinder pins!

Sorry to hear of the problems on your oil leaks, I also ran into the same problems on my engine build recently. First was the oil pump, I replaced the gasket for a better one and that fixed it. Then the seal on the flywheel was also leaking, replaced it and that also cleared it up.

On those thick gaskets for the manifolds I also had problems with them. I tried them first on my carburetors but they leaked air. I replaced them with the thin type and no more air leaks. Hopefully you will be out on the road again soon my friend.

Thanks, Pedro. I hope that taking my time will lead to good results.

Final(?) tweak of the left door lock cylinder.

Seems to work 99% of the time, with just occasional resistance if the key is not straight.

Door lock re-installed. Once I get some duplicate keys made and check them, I will complete the door interiors.

Time to get my "new" dual oil pressure system installed. I got some M10 spacers in steel and aluminum, in different thicknesses. Since I can't screw the brass T-fitting in all the way (and keep clearance for the stock sensor in the side hole) I need to use a spacer so I can get a tight and rigid connection with some stand-off.

After some test fits, including with copper washer seals, I decided I needed a thinner washer. I got out my ancient supply of brass shim stock.

Here's my thin brass seal washer. That goes on the T-fitting, along with a 4mm aluminum spacer.

With some Permatex #1 on all surfaces, I was able to get the T-fitting tight facing the right direction. And then I installed the stock sender with another dab of Permatex.