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bkrantz
Another squeeze, just to the limit of pinching.
bkrantz
With the pressure released, the bushing rebounded a bit.
bkrantz
I then pressed into a 27mm socket, matching the outer rim of the eye bolt.
bkrantz
That was enough to get just a bit of the bushing edge out the other side of the eye bolt.
bkrantz
I then used my blunt ex-screw driver pry tool to ease the edge out all around.
bkrantz
Done.
bkrantz
Then I pressed in the metal center bushing. Again, lots of soap.
bkrantz
And then a smaller socket to press against the rubber bushing.
bkrantz
Centered.
bkrantz
Ready for the final assembly. The specs come from the factory shop manual, and specify the lateral dimensions (278 mm left and right from center) and the angle of the eye bolts (9 degrees down to the rear).
bkrantz
I then put on the bellows (small end to the inside).
bkrantz
And the eye bolts with the stop plates.
bkrantz
To get the rack to sit properly horizontal, I made a pair of stands that screw into the rack mounting holes.
bkrantz
With a little adjustment, the rack now sits horizontal.
bkrantz
To measure the angles of the eye bolts, I grabbed some long bolts, and some tape to shim these for a snug fit.
bkrantz
Here's a top view, with the bolts propped up on some 2x4 blocks.
bkrantz
Lucky 2x4 thickness! The angle is right on 9 degrees.
bkrantz
Next is to measure the lateral dimension, with the rack itself centered. The spec is 278 mm. Note that the adjustment is a bit crude, since the eyebolt has to screw in or out a complete revolution to maintain the proper angles, both down to the rear and turned out to the front (as seen from above).
bkrantz
I set both sides. Interesting that the left side was screwed in fully, while the right side was out one full turn.
bkrantz
I snugged up the lock rings, but will check dimensions one more time tomorrow before final tightening.
bkrantz
Final bits today for the steering rack. I did double check dimensions and angles, and then tightened the lock rings. Got this tool for the job.
bkrantz
Here's all the parts gathered for installing the lower steering shaft. That includes a new rubber coupler and lock plates.
bkrantz
The coupler first mounts to the lower shaft.
bkrantz
After torquing to proper spec, the ends of the lock plate fix the bolt heads.
bkrantz
And then the coupler bolts onto the rack input yoke.
bkrantz
Lock these bolts in place, too.
bkrantz
Then comes the plastic cover and the lower shaft bearing. Ready for installation.
bkrantz
Just some minor progress today. I took another batch of parts out of the Evapo-rust bucket, including the frame for the parking brake switch. Here it is reassembled.
bkrantz
Also from the bucket, the transaxle mount pieces.
bkrantz
And starting on the parking brake lever. A bit ugly.
bkrantz
A bit of garage cooking, to warm up the plastic grip.
bkrantz
Grip removed, and a bit more cleanup.
bkrantz
Primed and painted.
raynekat
Much better looking there Bob. Nice
bkrantz
Now for the big job of the day: installing the rubber bushings on the front A-arms.

I decided to try some different methods. First, I did not heat the bushings or other parts. Second, I put my new taller press to use. I had the same Dake press in a bench top model but could not fit the A-arms (or some other things). My son has been wishing for a press, so his birthday will come early.
bkrantz
Here's my process.

1. Press the bushing into the rear housing. Lots of liquid soap.
bkrantz
2. Bushing pressed in.
bkrantz
Here's the 914 Rubber inner guide, to ease the bushing onto the A-arm. The tape makes for a snug fit to center the guide.
bkrantz
The guide in place.
bkrantz
3. Starting to press the bushing on, over the guide. The stack include the other 915 Rubber guide, with the recessed end inserted into the housing. Lots more soap.
bkrantz
Pressed all the way on. With the pressure released, the bushing rebounded a bit.
bkrantz
So I reversed the guide and pressed again against the housing. I also left the pressure on for a few minutes to allow the rubber bushing to creep into place.
bkrantz
4. Once installed, the bushing and housing must be adjusted to the proper angle to ease A-arm installation.

First, set the arm horizontal (and right side up).
bkrantz
Then, check the angle of the housing. It should be 14 degrees from vertical, rotated "up". First check shows only 10.
bkrantz
A bit of twisting.
bkrantz
Now 14 degrees.
bkrantz
5. Install the rubber bushings into the front A-arm body mounts. Note that the mounts have a top and bottom, with the raised bosses on the top.
bkrantz
Like the rears, lots of soap, and press the rubber bushings into the mounts.
bkrantz
Ready for the A-arms.
bkrantz
6. Pressed into place.
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