Articulating drink holder fabbed up and installed

Doesn't 914rubber have a holder for drinks? Or is my old memory fooling with me?

GN

Got a free tow home, thanks Hagerty ! Click to view attachment

Did you have too much to drink?

@ClayPerrine Hey Clay, anyway that you could permanently attach that emoji to "The Flatbed Thread"?

On the road again... Only on jackstands for a couple months. New rotors and m/c, PMB rebuilt calipers, @gms refinished/powder coated steelies.
Pedal still a little soft, have to bleed it out again, but it's drivable!

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I spent a few hours reassembling Chucky this weekend. Added amber angel eyes to driving lights, added painted tygaboy radiator shroud, added remote controlled power truck with manual override, powder coated Intake tube black, added spoke LED lights, added LED 3rd brake light.  Bruce Stone and I bled the brakes yesterday.  All good after 30 minute test drive. 




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Such a clean and great looking car!

Soooo Nice Oscar!
Will we see this in SLO

No drinks till after the driving. Had some fuel delivery issues...all resolved!

Yehey! Chucky is alive again! Is that Jerry on the wheel?
A real beast on engine and the looks!

Yup. That is Oscar's obsession.

Thank you John.....



Oscar

Went to Cars and Coffee this weekend.

Cruise is the newest member of the Elvira Fan Club.
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@mxkinn01 brought his sweet sixty six.
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Fake nine fourteen.
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Fake Spyder.
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Flat Four.
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DeTomaso in need of love.
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Margie would love the pillow.
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@ValcoOscar - Wow. Chucky is looking very nice. Looking forward to seeing you at WCR.

@fixer34 - Love seeing another Irish Green 6 on the road. I like your steelies too.

Installed NOS driver's seat belt. While in there, also removed and re-installed the parking brake handle to inspect and lubricate it.Click to view attachment

Looking great Pete!

Ditch the stainless lines and go with the stock rubber lines. I wouldn't reuse your old ones though, unless they are at least newish.

Have had a hard time finding a decent clutch stop so made my own. It's a prototype; I need to figure out how to have the rubber bit come more forward and stay put. It pushes back with a hard push on the pedal.
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I had installed stainless flex lines 25+ years ago (the last time I touched the brake lines). Replaced the front flex lines with rubber this time, left the rears installed as they seem to be fine and are a b**th to get to.
The stainless lines I was referring to are new hard lines running from the master cylinder to each side soft line.
Not really bent correctly and stainless tubing doesn't bend easily. Then the issue with the connections leaking. The old steel hard lines weren't that bad, but I had rounded off one of the hex fittings and another one was rusted up.
I was so ticked about the stainless hard lines, I installed the one old line with Vise-grips, and put heat/penetrating oil on the rusted end and freed it up. Put them on, no leaking, bled the brakes and had it out for a drive that night. I'll deal with the vendor, and install another set of regular steel lines once it gets colder and I'm not driving it.

Started and ran the '71 for a few minutes to check for exhaust leaks after repairing a stripped exhaust stud. Sounded great! NO leaks!!

Pulled out the /4, put in the rain tray and washed it for the first time in about two years

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Acknowledging my sponsors...

Pulled off my trailing arms. All original bearings and bushings. All in OK shape. Redoing it all as it needs to get done, but surprised the rubber in the rear trailing arms was all full intact. Same was not true on the front I re-did a couple years ago.

Drove both before it got too hot. '73 ran great. '71 ran great but have some linkage adjustments to do! Would only go into 2nd and 3rd... realized it pretty quickly when it wouldn't go into 4th!!

Had fun extracting screws from the exhaust / heater ductwork.

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Practice for the Eastwood Mig135.

Took it for a spin after adjusting the clutch per Dr Evil’s guidance. That, on top of all new linkage bushings and dialing in the shifter, made for the best driving experience to date. Did not nick reverse a single time … but it still flops between the 2-3 and 4-5 planes when in neutral without returning upright. Springs for the R-1 plane return are working fine.

Took my bride of 49 years on an ice cream run to a Bruster's about 16 miles from us on almost all twisty country roads - one of our fav dates.

When home, I took a commercial digital thermometer accurate within .1 deg, pulled off the oil fill cannister and checked the oil temp. It was 208 deg. F with this on the gauge:



Which corresponds exactly to the '74 and later 200C sending unit in the upper right hand corner here:



Good news is on a 95 deg. day running at 70mph on the interstate for an hour, the hottest my engine is getting is 240 deg. F or less.

Want to get it lower, but not as bad as I feared.

GN

What oil are you using? When I switched to full synthetic 5w40 (Mobil 1) I noticed a substantial decrease in temp from the 20/50 dino.

Did two really good drives today after an oil change yesterday. Still bone dry on the bottom so that's great news. Car runs comfortably in the low/middle of the temp range and the dipstick thermometer reads 200 on the nose every time and it was hot here today. Idles a little low when warm but I'll turn the idle screw tomorrow and raise that - should be good to go.

Valvoline VR-1 - cam & pushrods need the ZDDP.....lots of folks here use it.

I'm a synthetic oil nut and Amsoil dealer - but many have said to not run synthetic in a Type IV. I don't doubt it can drop oil temp.

OTH, I use Brad Penn in my old Triumph motorcycles as it has the ZDDP and is partially synthetic.

I may try the Brad Penn in my next oil change. But it's not full synthetic. There are those who argue that partial synthetic has same benefits of full synthetic. I'm not sold on that yet........

I could use Mobil 1 or Amsoil and ADD ZDDP additive - but that is expensive........

GN

I use the European blend that is supposed to have higher levels of zddp but I don't really buy that zddp mysticism (or the no need for synthetics in 914s logic). I have no real evidence but I suspect moving to a lighter weight oil (40) and the synthetic oil increases the volume of oil moving through the engine, moves more heat etc. Sacrifice a little pressure for more oil moving through.

Engine started running poorly couple days ago......some popping in left carb at idle... loss of power...think I found it - loose intake manifold on left. That sure would explain it.

My bad.....should have snugged it up a week or so after running engine in in May.......right one was tight.

When you get my age, you forget things........

GN

Took a bath? Getting some air.....Click to view attachment

Media blasted my fog light housings and front turn signal housings.

Building an insert to hold the euro light for the US housings.

Primer tomorrow.

Drove it one more run and then a nice wash and tucked it away until I get back...
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"you forget things" It's a miracle any of us can walk and talk.

Back to the topic: Changed the alternator belt and changed the leaking oil pressure sender. Hoping a bad oil leak in the area of the oil filter will be cured. It appears the upper portion (plastic) had become dislodged from the lower portion and was leaking. The area surrounding the pressure switch was washed clean from leaking oil.

Back 3 years ago before I had a stroke and surgery I swore that I would not tear another 914 apart. So at 73 I am doing one "final" parts car. I sure can't get up and down like I used to but I am working smarter. Got all the tools on location and try to prepare for all options. With that said, I made great progress the last couple of days. 1st up was all the brake pads pulled. Spent time taking the paint off the rear axle bolts with wire wheel. Original axles that had never been off. Made sure you could see yourself from the reflection. Sprayed with PB Blaster. Moved on to removing muffler. Looked to be a great 2.0 L, wrong it had big holes . Went back and used 450 lb impact wrench and took of axle nuts.
As usual one was easy other was a pain. Went back today, got heat exchangers off, axles out and swapped out rear shock bolts so I could keep rear sway bar bolts. One day closer to getting the engine/transmission out. Rest of the stuff is a piece of cake when that is done.

Slow and steady wins the race

New shock inserts in my 71. Finished painting panels on Saturday. Ready for a paint booth!

oil change
second car on the new hoist.
found nothing unpleasant in the screen after running it for about a year, after a very long 16 year hibernation. no rod knock - fingers crossed. some more high zinc goodness went in.

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then had to begin disassembly of ford falcon ute hell hole project.
don't ask.
had to put this back together in great haste, get a roadworthy and get historic plates for it, dickhead dan our state premier has with short notice shifted requirements for historic plates to 30 years, from 25 years. its a revenue grasp for the state coffers in the covid aftermath? are we even in the aftermath yet? the gouge has begun.
we mocked it up, got the rw and got it registered, now i have to strip it again to finish the paintwork.

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i got to drive the 914 home on the last day of winter, first day of spring, in middle of covid lockdown with essential worker permit on a cloudless night, with the heater on and the top off. perfect. twilight drive. not too much traffic.

Further working on my 914 badge dropped the engine for the first time
Next Pull the heads

Is she not running well?

I tried to trade in my 914 today but Bill wouldn't trade for some reason. Oh well, I might have him on the corners... might.... Click to view attachment

I'm gonna bet you have him in the corners. Have you forgotten #40 from the 1970 Lemans?