I dropped off some parts at the shop this morning. I saw a red 914 on a flatbed transport that was heading north on PCH through the Harbor City area this afternoon

Cleaned up the shop yesterday, today I'm going to pull the loaner 2.7 out of the car. Then I can start prepping the car for the new 3.2. Should have my ring gear adapter from Kennedy engineering in a couple weeks, it's the last part I need to get it installed.

Hopefully soon

Thanks for testing my 2.7 for me.

Built a hoist to get my engine on the stand.

Nice hoist you built there!

Thanks. Sometimes it sucks living in the middle of nowhere.....

* (Truth) I gots no friends...

I installed my modified rearview mirror.

I have one of those and I like it instead of gluing to the windshield.

I agree

Got the 2.7 out of the car, only took a couple hours.
Since it went so well I got the transmission separated, took off my clutch and flywheel, put the engine on the lift table, cleaned up, put all the tools away, took a picture of the 914-6 flywheel/clutch/pressure plate for a FS ad............and still made it back in the house just in time to watch the 49'r game...........I should have stayed in the shop.

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Now I can start working on the electrical, and fuel line changes.

looked at it - spent 3 hours yesterday trying to get it to start at this point I am frustrated enough to part it out and move on... if I coud get it running long enough to drive it on a lot I would trade it in tomorrow. now , its not a fuel issue, pretty sure its a spark issue. in 5 years ive never not been able to figure out what ever issue I was having. from MPS, points, timing, CHT recently, etc etc. Right now I need to be able to drive the car.

Picked up some Australian starfish because I needed a 5 lug spare.

If you're at that point maybe it's time to take it to a shop and get it sorted out, or if that's not an option....what about hosting a work BBQ, maybe it just needs fresh eyes.

Good luck

I moved mine out of the garage , under it's own power, to continue rebuilding my niece's engine in her 89 Cabriolet. She better appreciate it! I'm down to adjusting shifting to get first gear in my 914, then I'm road worthy, or at least to the point of breaking down on the way to work....

I wish we had some members in the area, but unfortunately its just me. Closest to me is BillH1963, but he's 2 hours away and busy playing with 911's and Ferrari Mondials lately , right Bill? However there is a shop over in Beaufort and they have the ability to figure it out. Although George, the Porsche mechanic that works for Bob Woodman, just rolled his eyes and cringed the last time I talked about making changes or sorting out the d-jet injection. But he has been working on all kinds Porsche for 40 year + , and has done a bit of work on this car already- helped get my new brakes sorted out for Octeenerfest and installed my front new A-arms, ball joints and tie rods, among other things, also did my 4 wheel alignment and set valves last time fore me as well. So I will be call ing them tomorrow to see how soon they can get at it.

I am just too cheep, so I prefer to do it myself but it appears I need a new set of eyes to figure out what I am missing.

thanks for the encouragement- in the mean time I am also looking at other motor options,including that 2366 that's listed in the classifieds.......

Yesterday I drove her over 350 miles.

Put Violet on club registration ( $137 a year for 90 logbooked days, instead of $740 !!! ) meaning a change of number plates , and stuck my Porsche Club badge on.

This morning I was able to do some prep work for my 71 1.7 rear suspension console installation and I cut a piece of metal for repair and was able to take a picture of the inside just below the "hell hole". Atleast not that bad looking!

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I fitted the shims for the upper coil-overs in the rear heim joints. Had to take some 1/2" by 5/8" inch rods and cut them down to just under 1/2". I was able to get them close and pulled them in with the grade 8 - 1/2" fasteners.

You might think about spraying some of Eastwood's 'Rust Encapsulator' in that long before you button it up ... and in the driver side too

Put it on a trailer. Headed to the shop tomorrow. Got it started long enough to get up on trailer but it took 3 tries, could not keep it running kept dying would not stay idling at all. I am sure that George will figure it out, just hope it's not too many G.W's!!.

I'm looking at a similar repair- how much cleaning do you have to do to use the Eastwood product and make it work? Just blowing it out and a little vacuum work?

"Internal frame coating is formulated to convert and encapsulate the rust INSIDE your frame. Our formulation also incorporates zinc phosphate to further protect the metal from future corrosion. The viscosity is stabilized to assure proper flow and penetration to the existing corrosion and will yield complete coverage when sprayed with the included "conical nozzle". Easy to use and perfect for rust proofing, this must-have product is aerosolized to simply spray the entire inside of the frame with the supplied extension tube and "conical nozzle" for complete coverage and elimination of the rust for years of protection."

For more info, Click here

Yes Sir Mark i already have the Eastwood internal frame coating and that is I will be doing next following the welding of new suspension console with one of our members help by next week.

Thanks again!

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Sketch Guru...

Okay, now another Eastwood related question... I've still got the paper heating tubes in my longs and it makes sense that they need to come out to use this stuff. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this?

Fished hose that goes from spare to washer bottle out from under gas tank.

Filled washer fluid ....Check

Filled spare tire... Check

Hooked up hose to tire...Check

Hooked up hose to washer bottle...Check

Heard what sounded like a snake hissing inside the car...

Found a few cups of washer fluid leaking out of dashboard onto
Floor

Not an easy task to remove those tubes, unless you're removing the outer longs anyway.

If not, remove your seat(s), then pull the interior carpet up from long(s) and remove the the oval inner rubber plugs (2 each side) to gain access into the long(s).

I'd suggest spending the $ for a good inspection camera (HF has one for approx $200.) and look at the innards to see where the best place(s) to thread the spray wand in through the long. You'll probably need to run through and spray multiple times to cover all the surfaces.

Thread the spray wand in and then look with the camera again to be sure you know which side of the tube you're threaded through. After letting the first pass dry, insert the camera again to see how much you got covered. Spray again as needed, until all four surfaces inside the long(s) have been treated.

If you have the shift lever, shift rod, cables and wiring, etc. out of your tunnel area, it's a good time to spray in there too.

All that stuff is out as I'm replacing floors too so I'll get all that. I've got a borescope so I'll check all the sides in the long. I'm not gonna use the heating tubes anyway so I thought I'd remove them but it looks like a pita. Still be nice to get rid of them...

RAIN is coming! Well I don't have the umbrella yet but my temporary cover will help specially some bare metal on my suspension console area might get wet.

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Took mine over to AAA to double the agreed value on my classic car policy...then came home an reinstalled my rain tray for the harsh San Diego winter weather
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Hi sir, just wondering how much did AAA valued your classic insurance? I'm a AAA member for several years but last 2012 I'm paying around $200 with AAA along with my multiple discounts. I did'nt get full comprehensive before. But last year I move my '75 914 to Hagerty and I only pay less than $200 with comprehensive and guaranteed coverage of $15k.

eric9144- Beautiful car!

Got her tucked away under Amoy's awesome car cover!

wow nice! Sir is that cover for 914 body? do you have the web site that I can check? thanks!

Yes, it's specifically for the 914, but it's a custom made one off that my girlfriend made for me a while ago.

Oh okay thanks for responding!

Nice.

What material did Amoy use to make it Andy? Is it really water-proof?


I drove the 'BB' down to Automeister to visit 'Eileen' yesterday. Dropped off a set of front disc pads since they still had her up on the lift. Randy replaced one CV joint, all four CV boots, both rear slave cylinders and rear shoes. Engine analysis is next on the list.

For now, the 'BB' is sitting out front under one of Perry's umbrella covers until the storm passes

I'm thinking about fabricating some water deflectors for under the engine compartment's side grilles, that will channel some water into the side funnels

This year it was a whopping $89 for $12k in agreed value---I'd jumped on NADA the other day and 914 values are up so much I went in so they'd re-evaluate, I'm attempting to get it closer to double that

Now if they'd only do the classic policy on motorcycles

Yes, it's water proof outdoor fabric.
It's not the flimsy "coated" tent fabric, it is heavier than that and completely water proof.

Thanks for the response sir Eric! Not bad $89 with $12K coverage. And like what they have said, you have a beautiful teen!

I think it might have made the calendar

Installed my homemade D-ring tether for my foot rest.
Installed the seat belt holster. I also took a picture of the screws if anybody needed it.

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Fabricated +welded in the back half for the new drivetrain.Click to view attachment

I removed the rear trunk torsion bar springs the wrong way. The spring hit my finger and I thought I broke it. Fortunately it is not broken just swollen black & blue. I have ordered front & rear struts from Craig @ camp 914.

Can some one post photos of where the mounting points are?

David

I couldn't open my rear trunk. One of the hinge mounts has broken free. Another 3/4 of the weld has broken so my trunk has lifted up on the drivers side about an inch. So, the lock wouldn't unlock. I screwed around with it until the push button part of the lock came out and I could hear something fell off the back into the trunk floor. I'm thinking I'll have to try to unbolt the two screws on each trunk hinge from the engine compartment. Not sure if that is possible and those torsion bar springs sound pretty dangerous. Anyone else have this happen?

Been there.....
Just ordered JW hinge mounts for the springs... Kinda tricky to install so I may have someone else set the springs.

I have an extra lock that works, but no key.... If you need it let me know.

You should be able to insert a rod through the hole for the push button and unlock the latch. Might have a lot of pressure if the lid is tweaked.

First show us a picture of your finger.....

Yeah, it's a World requirement ... (and not your middle finger)

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