Michael,

Ok, excellent, thank you for the clarification so i need to source the rod and the pad to be added to the assembly, some slight modification etc!

thanks,
Phil

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These are all the pieces needed to make it work.

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Just in case you’re laying it out yourself. Once this tab is in the rest is fairly simple.

Cool! that is so much more simple than what i was picturing in my head

- so i have to find someone to weld the tab on for me OR buy one that is already made- if anyone has one let me know. .

Registered for ÜnStock
https://www.pca.org/events/unstock

we need one of these on the east coast! Luftgekuhlt is coming east and is having a display event at the Chattanooga Motoring Festival in October, i am registered for that, should be a fun day!!!

Pulled the tank in preparation for relocating the fuel pump to the frunk and installing SS fuel lines. There's only minimal rust in the tank, so I'm going to see if the radiator shop will clean it up. Good news is there is still a lot of factory paint under the tank and no rust. If I have time tomorrow, I'll clean it up a bit. I might even install a front sway bar while the tank's out.

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Still working on removing the undercoating and getting ready for under car repaint.

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Cleaned and prepped Elvira for our pilgrimage to Rennsport.
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Went to a local PCA cars and coffee. The organizer moved the cone to give me front spot parking.

On the 20 mile ride home the alternator light came on and stayed on regardless of RPM’s. When testing for voltage there is no gain at the battery when car is running at 2k rpm’s. I think the voltage regular or alternator is dead 3 days before Rennsport. I don’t think I can get it fixed prior to Rennsport which is a bummer. Generator bulb was fine. All fuses are good and I think my setup has the voltage regular built in with the alternator. On a brighter note I was able to get it home. Changing battery so I can drive it to the shop this week.

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Tough acts to follow.


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Found this in my parts box, I was bored so I did some work on it. I cleaned, sanded and baked some paint on it. I drilled out the ID of the crank case breather. Some new nuts would look nice. Could someone please ID the size of those nuts for me. Thanks

First annual Cowabunga car show at Hopmunks in Sebastopol.
I was asked to move from the back row to right in front of the main entrance!
A little 914 appreciation!

what did you use to strip off the undercoating? i am going to do the floor pan next, i did the wheel wells and rear trunk area last year, and need to do this and then re-spray and then i am thinking about using raptor liner, are you going to coat it with tintable bed liner or something else?

Phil

Installed a front sway bar. I'm a little worried about the brake lines rubbing against the shackles, but I'll just have to monitor it for now.

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I would love to strip the undercoating, but I am quite sure I won't live long enough

Check the gas tank for rust in the areas where the tank rests on the fabric body pads. I have had 2 tanks rusted out in those areas from the outside of the tank to the inside. I suggest replacing the fabric body pads with sold rubber ones that won't hold moisture and rust out the tank.

7 hours spread out over 3 days and...
My first engine drop complete!
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I used many plastic razors, a fixed plastic scraper, and heat gun to get the bulk and then professional strength goof off with chemical mask and good ventilation.

The paint shop uses a light texture and paint.

Here is a pic of the Palma car to see the texture.

Living in the desert, I’ve been obsessed with improving cooling. Since every little bit helps, here is that little bit. And yes I need a hair cut.

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Put a new low profile cardboard box under it.

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Finished the shifter mods, time to move to the next step. Drilled out the old piece tonight and I’ll weld in this new end tomorrow that will accept a steering shaft u-joint.

Last hillclimb of the year - shortest course in the calendar at just 500 yards, but challenging... Ended with a PB and exactly matched the time of a friend's 996 which won the next class up. Now for six months of planning – and spending money I don't have...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApuK-sWC9hw

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The guy at the radiator shop said it would cost $350-$400 to clean and seal my old tank, so bought a new one and had it shipped x-country....total cost tax, tag, title.... $250. Got it today. Of course it came with 2 bent tabs which I had to bend back.

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Also started working on getting the rust and debris off the old filler neck. Hope to finish tomorrow and get it into primer.

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And done. Moving on to the next step

maybe i missed it earlier but why are you making your own shift rod?

Why didn't you just weld the splined end into the shift rod? The U-Joint will bend, and everything will still work great.

I took all the stock parts and laid them on the ground and marked where everything was from the factory

Beginning of the rods, end of the rods, curves of the rod. I then laid out the project parts on the drawings on the ground with the ujoint in place. To get the best angle on the ujoint and keep the rods in place, That was how I did it. I had no car with a sideshift bar and trans to fit to, so I had to keep everything in its place. As well as I could anyway. Plan is to make my shift console with a seperate rod and add a second ujoint, but it will be long enough to run it stock if I change my mind. That console shaft will not be cheap.


@DRPHIL914

Well, I'm at a point where if I can't make it, fix it or modify it to work, I will find a used one good enough to fix. I've had over 40 years to dream up stuff to do to this car. Saw my first mid-engine buggy long ago and the first thing I noticed was the linkage.

A true tail shift owner. lol

Thank goodness I have most of the parts to remedy that.

well if you have the parts and have the skill to make it happen why not!! i wasn't sure if there was a reason why you might have to modify and make your own. certainly can save a ton of $$ if you have the time, same reason why i do most stuff myself, there are times i wish i had the equipment to make my own stuff, i have ideas just cant carry them out!

You will find the seam on that new tank sits up too high for the retainer strap to fit properly. test fit the little plastic retainer first by grinding that seam down by half.

[quote name='RFoulds' date='Oct 4 2023, 01:59 PM' post='3105859']
[quote name='Craigers17' post='3105528' date='Oct 2 2023, 03:16 PM']


You will find the seam on that new tank sits up too high for the retainer strap to fit properly. test fit the little plastic retainer first by grinding that seam down by half.
[/quote]


Thanks for the heads up. I'll test fit it in a couple days and see what I need to do. I rather be grinding before I put gas in it. Seems like they should have foreseen that issue.

Early AM Santa Rosa Cars and Coffee.

Took the right front wheel off Elwood yesterday. It got screwed (as in a screw in the tread) on the Dragon, and it went flat. So it will be going to Zims to be repaired. I am not trusting the expensive pure Magnesium 5 lug gas burners to the tire monkeys at Discount Tire.

I finally fixed my turn signal issue which did turn out to be the stalk switch itself - about the only thing it could've been after going over everything else multiple times! Thanks to World and Samba for leading me to the issue and a NOS part.

That is very pretty...

Finished painting the filler neck...

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Removed old plastic lines & fuel pump....

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Installed Tangerine's SS line...I have carbs so I'm only installing the supply...

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Mocked up new location for new filter & pump...

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Mounted my driving lights into my Safari bar today and added Duetch connectors for tying into my lighting harness. The lights mount with a 6mm countersink screw on each side, so you don’t really even see the mounting screws.

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Looking through a parts box and found the short shaft I need to do a side shift console mod. Even has the right end on it for the u joint. So it just needs to be turned down and drilled for the cone screw…when I know where that needs to be drilled.

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@mikey63 did you make your own ski rack/surf rack?

Phil

Dr. Phil, I did make it.

'74 2.0, 27k miles


Rebuilt the Engine Bay heater Blower Motor - wrote a thread on this - could not find one so I had to figure it all out myself.

That's a very cool detail.

Actually did this yesterday...continued relocating my fuel pump to frunk. Added two holes to the fire wall for fuel lines and used the existing factory hole for the 12awg wire which runs through the tunnel back to Pin 1 on the dedicated circuit of T4b on the relay board, per Andy's Fuel Pump Carb Conversion thread. Also added a new power supply relay as mine was missing. Now I have to find a grommet that will fit the factory hole in the frunk.

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I finished up this seat, well it still needs trim and base mounts. My next move is to make a pattern from this one so I can repeat it in thicker material. This one is in .063. I think that the seat needs to be a least .090, but I think that , this might sound wimpy but I'm afraid of trying to bend 1/8th.

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That came out pretty cool, Joe. Is it comfy? I’m going to just add bolsters to my stock ones. But good to know there is another way.

Working with Mark Sonners on this RAT 2170 Rebuild then Going over to George the Machinist To have him put it on the test stand and run it for a few minutes, than off to PMB Motorsports on pallet to put in my 74 blue car body I have had for 13 years .

Best Bob B
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Finished the fuel pump relocation and installed the new gas tank.... yeah I know... I really need to clean and paint my car....but right now, it's some of the best driving weather in Georgia so that will have to wait. This was also the first drive since installing the front sway bar......HUGE difference!
Oh and Big Thanks to Chris at Tangerine for putting together a nice kit for SS lines/fuel pump/filter combo! That pump is soooo much quieter than my last pump.

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Very cool install, super clean look! Nice work

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Worked on the transition of the shifter rod and the added splined end for the u joint. Even though it will be under the car, I just couldn’t leave it the way it was. Better now

Thanks Paul, it pulls on my heart strings every time see it. It fits perfect, had to bend it twice, narrowed down and now it hugs my hips and touches me almost to my armpit. 0h weight, still needs base brackets and trim. I weighed it before foam and it was 3 pounds and 7 ounces. I might have to build something to bend the new one with.

Race car seats.

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Porsche built the best...