Dis

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and Dat

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Finally was warm enough out in the garage yesterday
to mount my new stainless bumper and "914" Rubber Top.
The fog light grills I bought from the Dealership in the 70's
and although dirty from storage, are new.

Now have to wait for warmer days to mount the new dash.

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Looking good!

Thanks to a helping hand from Jim [lucky9146] today was stuff the motor day. .
Start and finish. . 90 minutes, now to hook everything up. .
This is the car that came from an Estate I listed 2 years ago. . It had a 2.2 S motor. . That is on the stand and it now has the correct number match Six motor. .
The car will be for sale shortly . . 74K miles and no rust. . I pulled the rockers and no issues. .

Lookin' good...great color!

What's your opinion on the fit & finish of the stainless steel front bumper?

When everything in the garage is fighting you all day, just scream out an expletive, quit, and move on to a crafty project that is hard to mess up...hahaha
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removed the factory door that were rusted out on the bottomsClick to view attachment

Installed some used rust free doors, rekeyed the door locks to match the ignition, want to install the tinted glass from the rusted doors using the 74 window regulators instead of the seeming weaker 71 regulators.

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Ooops ......also removed dented and slightly rusted hood with a pretty decent dent free hood.....Trying to "even the Gaps"

is that disk of carbon fiber meant for a road bike?

Digging the carbon fiber on the strap. Nice touch.

Bought some stuff at the swap meet today. Rear sway bar, Weber manifolds for future use, an intake boot for current use, and some other trinkets.

Finish is great....
Rear bumper went on easy.... The Front, not as easy.. I had to elongate some of the mounting holes on top of the bumper to fit the rubber top on . The holes they drilled for mounting the driving light grills were off on the drivers side and had to be worked a little as well. Took some work to mount it right...

Photo shoot.
European beauty American Muscle...

drove to work today - since re-crimping the connectors of the d-jet injector harness grounds and strapping the harness so that it will be less likely to move or pull loose, its running really good, no miss, no mess, no fuss.

Well, now I need to look at why my idle is so rich but the running A/F is perfect part load and full load. and adjusting the ECU has no effect, so I guess the TPS is not set, I remember Rich saying that if the TPS is not set right then the idle adjustment on the ecu will not adjust - but I did put it in exactly the position that the picture he set says to, so any ideas?? -

also noticed a bit of a front vibration at the wheel at 65mph on way to work, balance perhaps?

I wonder if I lost weight off one of the wheels, they were inner weights- I didn't want to have any on outside of the new refurbished Fuchs I have on. Tires are 1 year old Bridgestone Potenza. Hm- always something...

With all the rain, I need to wash it. Even with the covered parking.

I believe there still is a relationship between MPS tuning and idle. The TPS does not 100% determine idle mixture. When the TPS is in the idle "position" that knob can be used to influence the idle mixture, but it is essentially adding or detracting from your "base" idle mixture determined by, among other things, the MPS. At least that's how I understand it.

I think this may help: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/i...t-540502--.html

I will take a look at that. right now, after the last time I did a tweek to the MPS I brought my highway cruise and full load acceleration numbers into range, but before that were way lean,both the A/F on cruising was close to 15 and car ran hotter too, and now in the 12.8-13.7 range but my idle sits at 9.8 cold upon start up and still below 12, like 11-11.5 when warmed up. that seems a bit low to me but maybe that's o.k.?

Mine were in the 11 to 11.5 range at idle a few months ago, and I tweaked the MPS. Now more like 13 when warm, which I think is closer to where you want to be. If it goes too lean you get the surge action. I'd say to check your fuel pressure and TS1 sensor, but those would change mixture at all loads. Otherwise, once you get that LCR meter (you did order one, right?) you can do more experimentation with the inner screw and outer screw to bring idle down without compromising part load numbers.

ok. so I just spent about 30 minutes scanning over this and it seems my idle number is pretty good. am I correct that larger number is more lean?
also looks like I may need to still do a bit of adjustment but for he 2 that I rebuild but car will not run (did not bench set them) I have a lot of adjusting to do, the car will not run they are so far off it wont start with one and the other if cold it runs but after a few minutes will not( I assume its way rich right now ) so I think this is well explained and gives a better understanding of how and why to tune theMPS so that it runs better across the whole spectrum.
I still have high oil temps so I wonder if I will see that improve if I can get this tuning figured out. - thanks for the link!\

Phil,
Do you have the correct gauge and sender combination? Mixed match can lead to incorrect readings. Also is the wire from the sender to plug under battery in good shape? You could have a high resistance short in the wire? Try running a new temporary jumper wire and see if that changes oil temp.

nice.

I got the porsche running and the electrics and clutch figured out.

Now the gas pedal is sticking now in the open throttle position and the brake pedal is kind of sticky, not sure what to do.

Drove it to work this morning, top off

Winter appears to be giving up without much of a fight this year here on the East Coast (I know, famous last words). I drove it as much as possible to work this winter, and it did fine. But the last two days, with nice weather and the top off...it's just a totally different car, and much more enjoyable experience!

Took this picture at work. Two 914's in the parking lot, it is going to be a good day!Click to view attachment

Out with the old and in with the new, eventually. Back at it today prepping the old engine for shipment to Cali...

Tony

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Looking good.

Probably the accelerator cable and clutch twisted with each other just below or after the shifter (clutch and accelerator tube on the same left side of the tunnel). Open the access hole on the right side of pedal and take a picture of the tunnel facing the rear to see the cables.

My car seemed lonely.

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So, I brought home a garage mate for my 71. It's also a 71 I plan on getting the correct mirrors, Fuchs, and few other items it needs to bring it back to stock.

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I sold my '67 912-6 (roller) this evening /

My wife gave me a SCART muffler for my birthday today. My son Nolan and I had it installed right away. We shot this video out on our first test ride. Super high quality construction and sounded great. I was pleased to find out that the muffler was a perfect fit for the porthole valance on the /6. I thought I might have to use a later short valance to make it work.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLHlXGrT6As


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It sez I need a password to view it cuz it's a private video....

Car is getting close

Trying to fix it now Fixed.

Holy mother that's sick!!!

I run 5.3 in mine and my buddy runs 6.2 but you just
Took it to new level.

Nice work!!!!!

Thanks for sharing.

Took the first drive with my new Raby 2056. Smooooooth.

i changed the front breaks. it is the first time that i've done it all by myself.
it took a good 2 hours but it's a good confidence builder. i'll try to do the rear brakes either tomorrow or next weekend. i also need to replace my fuel lines into ss fuel lines.
while changing the brakes, i realized that my tires are really bad! they are cracked in the sidewall. i am hoping that we get money back from our income tax this year.

Yep, just had to modify it a bit, but for $5 on amazon, works great!

I fixed this:
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Here is the repaired suspension ear:

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Now, I can reassemble and get the car off jack stands

Abe, If you haven't already done so, read up and fully comprehend adjustment of the venting clearance before diving into your rear brakes.

My first time was a disaster ... kept me from driving the 'BB' to my first RT-66 run and I had to buy new (rebuilt) calipers

I removed the defunct G2X data acquisition system, which I installed a few years ago but it never did work right. Turned out the circuitboard had gotten wet at some point. I bought it used. One would think the box should have been watertight on something like this.

Anyway, when I installed it I must've thought it needed to sustain a direct missile hit...holey zip tie batman, it was all wired-in tidy and took at least an hour to get out. It always helps when the car has a full welded rollcage...sore ribs.

Awesome!!

Like Mark said, rear brakes are a little more complicated due to the parking brake so read up on it and be careful.

thanks mark and jim on the warning regarding changing the rear brakes and its complications!
i still have 20% of old pads left so i will focus time on the fuel lines instead.
pep boys got a sale on falken ziex ze-329 tires $54.00 plus by 3 get 4th free. although it is not a summer tire that i was hoping to get but the price is very tempting...

Mark, did you snap the adjustment screw?

Abe, them tires ain't bad

Checked torque on CV's.

Yesterday I fixed a minor oil leak from the taco plate on Betty's car, and changed the oil.

Today I got out there and replaced both rear trailing arms with rebuilt ones. New elephant rubber bushings, new wheel bearings, and new brake rotors. That should fix her car's case of rumbley butt.

Sat in my 914 and made vroom vroom noises....

Replaced fuse panel on the street car with the JWest one. Nice little piece of kit, half hour job. Everything still works and now the voltmeter doesn't go to "10" when I step on the brakes...it goes to ELEVEN!!!

(Just kidding. It doesn't move at all. Still flickers -2V with the turn signals, though...)

Started on to the front end body work...mounting of the Sheridan Ultimate 914 front body clip. She's starting to look like a complete car
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Excellent. What are you doing regarding the pedals?

T

I have a good friend that is a distributor for Tilton, reviewing these right now.