well lots in the past week, pulled the motor and trans, due to a leak- 2500 miles on rebuilt motor, just 1000 since resealing transmission and new rms last spring, yet here we are with a leak- what is it??? well let’s find out- it’s not the transmission that’s bone dry, it’s the RMS which was a VR from LN, 12mm upgrade from stock 10mm, and also i might have a deep from the plug at the end of the camshaft, not sure yet , but the galley plugs were dry. i have 2 pushrod tubes with a drip(also done last year) so we’ll take care of that, -
-checked the crank endplay ans shims to make sure, but we’re good to go @iankarr thanks for video and advice , refresher on doing this ans link for the meter. i have perfect shim thickness ans endplay that’s verified by multiple tests and almost ready for the flywheel to go back on. i installed an Ehrling RMS this time. SABO are not available due to problems with their manufacturing, molds
wearing out and not getting good seals anymore .
- should be back in the car by saturday but i am in process of gathering new FI system parts ans that might be in the car soon.
tin is getting cleaned up and new fuel lines and then get her back together. i can’t stand leaks!!! 2 year old dansk oil cooler has a crack so new one of those as well!
i really need a lift !!

Do they ever not drip?

The only time they don't drip is when they are out of oil.

probably true

still, i must try!
PJW

Another nice day (45 degrees) and another afternoon at work in the garage. Made sketches, took notes and pics. I started cleaning and taking apart the engine. I'm not rebuilding it at this time, but will degunk, clean, repaint sheetmetal, install new seals/gaskets/fuel lines/vacuum lines. Found I had one mismatched fuel injector, and broken nib (vacuum?) on a doohicky. As usual I found more bits I need to order. Its been a long time since I did this much work on a car and it feels great!

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Drove it almost 80 miles

No deer today, though crew-dog and I did come across a black yearling bull standing in the middle of the road. Bull didn't look too friendly, so I notified the local sheriff.

Thought the car was flawless...until I checked the headlights when I got back to the garage. Headlights came up on high beam; pulled the lever and got no headlights, another pull back to high beams. Cycled the lights up and down, now no headlights at all. Looks I'll be tracing electrical gremlins

Fortunately I have a couple of old headlight relays on hand. Fingers crossed.

Nope, donor car.... and that's being generous. Mother nature did a number on this one. Biggest take away is, DON'T STORE YOUR TEENER OUTDOORS IN A FIELD !!

This pic was taken before I dropped the engine and trans. I had already removed a bucket full of stuff from the engine bay at that point.

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@914rrr

out of historical interest whats the Vin # on that car.
i see it has the charcoal can in engine bay, might give us some more data on what we got for the changeover date.

to see a phoenix red 1.8 bite the dust like that one has, but if it helps others live it lives on.

PS make sure and save that cloth braided hose from the PCV valve to the intake boot.
its an NLA part and if its still in reasonable condition very useful to someone out there with an L jet.

Think of it as the automatic oil change system.

A break in the rain today, so did a 70 mile loop on some of Oregon's great back roads.

+1

Cloth braided hose is there but it's really crispy and a fair amount of the braiding on it had evaporated. I did manage to get the FI harness removed relatively intact.

VIN 4742914170
Build Date 02/74

thanks for the info mate.
it was built two weeks after my phoenix red 1.8.
ah well, i guess eventually they all bite the dust some time.

good on you for saving the FI harness.
and well........that old PCV hose will just have to go on haunting 1.8 owners.
you can't complain. its been half of a hundred years since these babies were made!!!!

It was a nice day so my brother and I took her out for a nice ride through Auburn and Meadow Vista.

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Nice Color

Thank you; it is Irish Green.

Got the engine tin back from powder coating. Really pleased with how it turned out.

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Looks great!

Took the '73 to a local C&C- red cars in front for Valentine's Day... Click to view attachment

(and that is a real Speedster- no kit cars allowed!)

Exactly, I picked up one recently stored outdoors in Western New York since the 1980's and yes she is rough. Not much salvagable but she was cheap.

We did this today for the 1st time in over 10 years.

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There is a Jake Raby video on the internet/Type 4 Facebook page with his tips for stopping the rear main seal leaks. He says to file 2 small drain holes in the rear main bearing support like the 2 liter motors have, one on top to allow air into the cavity behind the seal and one on the bottom to allow all the oil in that cavity to drain out of the cavity. He says the factory drain hole is located too high in the saddle area to allow all the oil to effectively drain out once the motor has stoped running. He also said the 1.7 and 1.8 liter cases don't have any drain holes at all, so all brands of rear main seal will leak on those engines. Raby also has sourced a special sized viton-based seal he found from an unspecified helicopter drive shaft system that he uses on all the engines he now builds. It is proprietary, so he doesn't sells them, and neither does the Type 4 Store.

I fixed my seat cushion today. The guys in the shop did a great job

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and what a nice feeling that must have been.

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good to know except we’d have to do that when the motor is being built so i guess that’s an option for a future build.
I finished my install of new RMS from Ehrling, and the motor is back in the car- i did notice when i pulled the flywheel there was a lot of oil behind the seal !

I finished up the install of a new rear main seal we did the pushrod two seals on the driver side since they were dripping slightly as well and mound of the transmission clutch etc. and the motor is now back in the car it’s been a busy weekend

Installed a Dakota CHT sensor. Cut a channel for the TC wire to travel.

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Nice!
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i hope that mustang isn't being neglected while you spoil the beastly chalon.

The mustang received an early spring car wash so it doesn't feel neglected.

Out with the old(ish) in with the new. Now maybe my wife will go on rides with me.

I admit I loved the SS 2-in, 1-out muffler I had on my car and no doubt would still be running it were my ears 20 years younger. But I am glad I switched to a stock muffler- my ears thank me every time we go for a ride. My wife likes the difference too- though admittedly, she is not in the car that much. She likes when I get out of the house and leave her in peace.

I look at it covered up on the flatbed trailer every day when I retrieve mail from the mailbox.

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One of these days, I need to run it up to a body shop in North Hollyweird - the owner said he could straighten out the driver side trailing arm mounting ears (the long pole in the tent)

I've been consumed with taking care of my wife who's developed dementia, so just been doing some more remodeling work on the CA house lately.

How hard is to to cut that channel, what tool do you use? Do you leave the spark plug in the hole or plug up the hole with something ? My engine is out of the car so it will be easier.
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks,

I started with a carbide Dremel bit but it got fouled by the aluminum so switched to a Dremel cutoff wheel. Not as neat a job as with the carbide bit but it got the job done. Filed it near the end to flatten the bottom of the channel.

For the metal shavings, I removed the spark plug and filled the hole with some of the tacky stuff used to hang posters (fun tak?). Then vacuumed the hole out before puling the tacky stuff out. It seemed to work pretty well.

Yes, yes indeed it was. Having some issues sending power from the ignition to the starter but we did bypass and start the engine. Needs a lot of tuning but the ignition issues has to be solved 1st.

Drove it

50 miles, no deer, no bull

Though part of the flare is like a washboard, it is installing nicely. Once I had the bottom right, it is just laying right in. I’ll finish this one today.

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Friend stopped by to install and calibrate a TPS for our 75 2.0. Car runs perfectly now .

Pulled the motor out of the big six last night....

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Going to replace the leaking timing box on the right side. It will be nice to have a leak free motor.

Did some more CAD...
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Then ordered all my -16AN fittings to plumb the Celica radiator to the Subaru 3.6 six using the braided hose I ran through the chassis.
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OUCH!

Hi Clay. The duel dizzys are so cool...Any progress on your horizontal cooling system?

I have to fix the oil leak first. Then I can start on the new MS3Pro wiring.

Here is the rope used to layout the EFI harness on the fan setup.

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And the Vacuum block with the IAC and the MAP sensor.

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I have been working on all of our other vehicles, so I have not had much time to work on this. The rope harness is still in prototype phase, so it is not final. I am debating on putting the ECU under the relay board.

I was going to put a blower fan where the /4 ecu mounted to push air through the heat exchangers so I would have heat. But I don't know if it will fit.

I also have to put vacuum ports in the bases of the intakes, across from the injector ports. Having the vacuum ports up near the butterflies would make the vacuum transition rather harsh and cause drivability issues.

We spent yesterday working on my car. We finally, it appears, have resolved the passenger axle seal leak that would leave a quarter-sized drip under my car when parked. Replaced the seal (again) only with a slightly different seal, and this morning not a drop under my car. Yay!!!!

We ended up dropping the rear of the car 1 Bilstein shock spring cup clip in height as it was just about 1/2" too high. Now it sits pretty with a slight rake, the front being maybe 5/8" lower than the rear. That's the way I think they look the best. I want to drive it some more today and really look at it to be sure we are at our final height adjustment. Then I will call the alignment shop to make an appointment to be sure everything is right.

We removed the rear valance and bumper as one of my valance attachment points on the body would not hold a screw to secure the valance and my valance was also about 1/4" off being straight. We installed riv-nuts in the 4 holes and used some black allen head screws that look nice and virtually disappear. The other screws were gold cad-plated Phillips screws. Now the valance is true across the width and looks much better.

We also, (finally) installed the snorkel on my stock 3.2 air cleaner. I have been wanting to do that for a bit. The air cleaner is now 100% stock 3.2 and appears to quiet the engine down a tiny bit too- of course, that could just be my imagination.

Also adjusted both doors as they were proud of the quarter panel when shut by maybe an 1/16". Now they are flush and still close nicely.

All in, a great day of fun and friendship.

Oh, the guy with the ponytail is HB. HB owns 2 914's- and is currently gathering parts to convert one of them to a 3.2 with Webers.....We hope to be picking the engine up from the machine shop within the next 30 days. Then the fun begins.

We did the work at Greg T.'s home in Tracy. Actually, he did the work and I was his assistant. Greg has the Willow Green flared 914 with a 3.2SS motored beautiful car that took 2nd at Werks Reunion this past year.

Oh- though the picture of the side profile makes it look like the rear wheel is showing positive camber, it actually is not. Weird.

Thanks for looking everyone,
Michael

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Put 2.5 miles on the car for the 1st time since 4.22.2012.

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Haha, and I'm putting flares on...That is next level cool Clay.

Wrong source man. You can buy them much cheaper elsewhere

AN fittings are always expensive, but they look very niece in the end…
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Got stripes - good for an extra 10mph at least!