Unless you're running an external cooler, an extra 1/2 quart is OK, 1 could be bordering trouble.

Some assembly required!
Drivers seat almost finished. Not fully assembled yet. I am going to try and add a bit more cushion to back and lumbar support, seat heaters and then a bit more firm seat cushion. I made a few minor mistakes here but learned a lot in the process. I'm going to try and do another set soon.
The hardest part is to stretch the side and back around. After that getti.g the back of the headrest pulled tight fastened securely. Otherwise not too bad.

The '73 got the following today:

New:

Front rotors
Pads all four corners
New upgraded master cylinder
All four brake calipers rebuilt

Smokin' on the Dragon... didn't realize it was this bad
No wonder we don't have mosquitos

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That's fantastic!

Were you drifting, or just got bad valve guides

Had a crusty rusty fuel tank.

Step 1: (Electrolysis)


Step 2: (De-greaser & Phosphoric Acid bath)


Step 3: (KBS coating from Summit)



I decided to do the coating as the tank will not have gas in it for a while. All the bad reviews of tank coating I believe are people rushing and not prepping the tank effectively. These modern coatings are designed to run ethanol fuels and racing fuels.

Definitely a time consuming process ( really a whole day...two days if your tank is BAD)

Got an idea from the $50 drink holder sold for 911s that attaches to the seat bases. When I saw that the 914 has the seat adjuster at that location, I devised an alternative contraption made from flat aluminum stock. I bent it and used a rasp to shave the metal down so that it would slide into the same track that the seat slider uses. I attached a bottle holder, so that the bottom of the bottle meets the floorpan.

Got the 2.8 Twin-Plug ready for Dyno-Time!

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Took the rusty side rails off and found more rust. I'll be cutting out a little bit of metal after media blasting.
The car is extremely light now that the suspension is out of it too!

Sourcing a Boxster S from Copart.com. Waiting for the right one.

What we did happened yesterday. I arrived at Kent's (76-914) bright and early (around 6:30am). Had some coffee and put the 'BB' up on blocks. I guess that could be considered 'car and coffee', no?

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Kent started modifying a clutch/brake pedal assembly by grinding the tacks off of the original bolts.

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I started in on the driver's side, taking the seat out for more room, then down into the foot well, removed the pedal board, disconnected the clutch cable & throttle linkage and gas pedal, then removed the old clutch pedal assembly.

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Then Kent completely disassembled the pedal assy to tack in some longer bolts

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whilst I was removing the clutch cable pulley console and the old clutch cable ...

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... and installing the braided hydraulic hose in thoough the vacated clutch cable tube.

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Stay tuned for part-II

Tried to install the front turn signal buckets, but I spent most of my time cleaning them. Now I need to paint them. Installed the side marker assemblies. But the screws for the lens wouldn't tighten all the way down. I need to figure that out.

Continued:

Kent lubed and reassembled the pedal assy and I installed it. Kent started under the the front end, installing the clutch master cylinder adapter plate to the existing brake master cylinder (that's why the longer bolts were added). Then he drilled a hole for the braided hose (to the slave cylinder) and installed a grommet to eliminate vibration chaffing ...

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... and fished the hose through the grommet. Notice the small rivet in the hose opening? ... that was so we wouldn't introduce any debris when running the hose in through clutch cable tube

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I started installing the slave cylinder mounting bracket, but Kent came back down there to finish up with the cylinder and linkage. Since we partially disassembled it from the mock-up transaxle, Kent knew how it all went back together better than me.

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I installed the new reservoir adjacent to the brake system reservoir. We drained most of the fuel from the tank so we could lift it out enough to provide a path for the new supply hose to the master cylinder. Kent went back under to drill an additional hole for the supply hose and I fished it down through that same hole.

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Next, Kent prepped the front end of the hose and attached a 90° AN connector, then attached it to the master cylinder while I re-secured the fuel tank.

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Then Kent prepped the rear end of the hose and attached another AN connector, then attached it to the slave cylinder.

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When we attempted to attach the clevis to the master cylinder plunger rod, we found that the bushing's bore diameter in the clutch arm on the pedal assembly was too small. There wasn't enough room to drill it out, or to press it out with it installed in the car, so this is where we stopped for the day. All we had left to do was fill the reservoir, bleed the system and make final linkage adjustments. We were SO close

Hell, roughly 10 hours doing all this beat the shit of two old farts

UPDATE!

Today, Kent mentioned that he removed the pedal assembly, fabricated a press tool to pop the clutch arm bushing out and swapped it out for a modified (re-sized) bushing

He'll fill me in on the details later, but it sounds good so far

That is terrific- two guys having fun working on a car together. Throw in a pepperoni pizza and a couple ice cold beers and that is just a terrific day.

... and a couple of Tylenols

Well, I've had several long weekends (with only a little time to work on the tuning) of my car. I've finally decided that I know enough to say I don't know enough. I'm going to seek expert help locally.

After solving an issue with the O2 sensor some time ago, I began to make progress with a friend to try to lean it out (AFR values were hovering between 10-11, burning my eyes with unburnt hydrocarbons!) Successful as that has been, partially, I applied a firmware upgrade for my Megasquirt 3 module and have had fun trying to track down what the hell it did during that upgrade.

Since I didn't build this car (EDIT: I'm not a car builder - just an engineer who loves to drive and learn stuff), it's been a slow learning curve for me and I don't have all the specs on things like injector pulse widths, dead times ... things I suspect are causing some issues. But more likely the real errors are within the way the code/firmware changed. As stated in the latest manual about going from 1.2.x to 1.4.x (which I did), the first two "gotchas" to fix are these:

"1. Idle control settings re-arranged. Need to reset:
Stepper vs. PWM idle valve
Open-loop vs. Closed-loop
Output pin for PWM.
2. Closed-loop idle control
The settings are re-arranged to simplify setup, but existing users will need to retune."

Double I don't know how to do any of that! Not helpful to me. So, I'm taking it to an expert soon. This post is just all about me venting, in case you haven't noticed.

When I do manage to get a stable idle, it's acted strange with both the built-in EGO control and the "auto-tune" feature (I don't run them simultaneously). The autotune has actually helped somewhat. My VE table has an interesting look to it right now, with quite low percentages (I'm at a mile-high altitude) at idle, and a rather steep slope up to higher percentages. Still, even under just little throttle blips load (even partial, light throttle) the AFR gets super-lean (I've seen brief values of 15-20, almost off scale). Although I've read EGO sensors are wildly inaccurate at load conditions, this shouldn't be so dramatic with mild blips, I think.

Anyway, as much as I've enjoyed learning stuff, no matter what I try to do with after-start enrichment settings and stuff, I'm starting to admit a minor defeat. I think I might have the wrong pulse width setup under cranking, but there's something definitely wrong with the idle control settings ... what the hell they should be is beyond me. Right now, it's hard to start without pumping the throttle, a classic sign of being too rich, and it tends to stall with even feathering of the throttle ... not quite drivable.

Anyway, that's what I've been doing to my 914 every weekend for the past 2 months or so. Thanks for reading all that. I'll hopefully, someday, know a lot more than I do now. It might even be the fact that I've got ITBs on it that are making for a difficult tune, but I think I've got more fundamental issues with the injectors and idle control preventing a stable running condition. I almost liked it better when it was just running mega-rich and fouling the plugs up while thinking the wideband O2 sensor was a narrow band sensor! Heheheh, life's funny sometimes.

added parts

Today, I cleaned my windshield with glass cleaner in anticipation of driving it to the train station or even all the way to work..hmmm...

As for the past couple of weeks, me and my buddy replaced the clutch disc and flywheel! I was dreading to do it--the most i've done was to replace oil and add in transmission fluids and easy stuff. I just adjusting the clutch cable last Saturday and took the 914 for a ride around my neighborhood. WOW! That was satisfying and encouraging. It went all right! No grinding and the car felt really good. i also found out what is leaking--my driver side axle to transmission is leaking and my shift linkage seal in the transmission is also leaking. I saw instructions from Pelican so i'll be printing them out and ordering parts soon.

I also borrowed my friends cordless impact wrench and his 27mm socket to replace my steering wheel. I got a lecarra steering wheel from a board member a year ago. not too bad for $30.

And to finish my weekend, i finally installed spoke's led brake lights. now i wish i had ordered his rear led signal lights too.

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Glad to hear the clutch disc worked out for you, Abe

Last night I vacuumed all the loose crud from the engine bay and removed the rear and side (original) seals. The front engine bay seal is still intact, but I should probably replace it too while the engine is out.

The next step is to clean decades of grime from the engine bay and figure out what to do with a little rust damage on the battery tray and hell hole. The lower fuel pump mount hole rusted out, but the upper one is fine. Otherwise, there is some surface scaling but no apparent structural damage.

MJHanna - Nice. Are you planning to add the black plastic shields over the metal tabs that hold the wiring harness in place so the metal does not damage the wire?

Yes if you look to the right side to the coils thats new wiring, the wiring to the left of center was done by the PO.

Took my doors off to sand and paint the area. thinking of having the doors soda blasted along with the trunk lids.

Just moving along..

we need a sanding emoticon...

Got my battery charger today so she might be running again this weekend!

Fixed the rear view mirror (found that the screw had come loose). Then drove down the coast to Cardiff, had dinner at a restaurant, and drove home.

I ordered a book on building 911 engines from Amazon.

I'm going to try to understand a bit more about the mysterious 911 Porsche motor and make an attempt at re-building mine.

What book did you order, Goob?

Fabb'd up some receiving plates for the aero - latch assemblys Click to view attachment

....another at the other side, 4 hold downs in total for the trunk lidClick to view attachment

Test fit of the SafeCraft Racing cage netClick to view attachment

I located the timing mark on the fan on the backside and marked it on the easy-read-side with my lovely wife's fingernail polish.. she is outa town in Seattle with our Daughter and first Grandson born last night at 1:37... the marks are good and I am already planning his first ridealong.... Not sure if I picked the right color however....
I went with red...

Thinking about this - Opinions?

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Packed both trucks with gear and went camping in Monterey. Nolan met the Gas Monkey guys while we we there today. He was stoked.


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Cool Mike! Where?

Thursday night, I pulled the barrels off of my wife's 1.7L motor. Marked them and stuck them in the hot tank. They actually looked pretty good, could still see cross-hatch marks in them ... then de-greased the 3~4 side of the case.

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Hoping to clean up the 1/2 side on Friday or Saturday ... maybe spit the case too?

Also, worked on a 1.6L 912 (type 616) motor. Torqued the recently installed 3~4 head, installed the rocker arm assembly and adjusted the valve clearances. The PO also forgot to install wave washers under the (7) rocker arm nuts when he rebuilt this motor ... luckily I had a jar full of extras.

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Now I get to disassemble and check the 1~2 side ... then install new push rod tube seals the missing lower deflector shield. If it's anything like the other side, it's probably missing head stud washers and O-rings, and wave washers for the rocker assembly as well

Still haven't found the misplaced fan housing yet either

tried my hand with body work. I think I am going to leave this to the pros LOLClick to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Smart call. A man has got to know his limitations.

That's not bad. Get a foam block or two and wrap the sandpaper around it. Sand in a cross hatch pattern. It will block out the waves.

Get a flexible longboard, some 120 grit sticky back paper, some black aerosol, and some glazing putty.

Foam block will not work.


Spray the area from 2' away with a mist of aerosol paint.

Sand with the board perpendicular to these lines and sand in the direction of the direction of the lines.

When you feel you have the basic shape down, grab the glazing putty, mix it per directions, and lay it 1/8" thick 3" past the low spot areas.

Spray some more "guide coat" (thin mist of aerosol paint), resand and reapply glaze till happy with desired shape and are simply left with 120 grit scratches. Go up to 220 grit then 320 grit, You will need primer filler between as you will likely hit metal.

Good luck

PS Good quality sandpaper makes this job so much more relaxing. Have a wire brush to knock off the sticky stuff off your sandpaper every couple minutes, then replace the sandpaper every 10 minutes or so.

You need

Also I use the edge of my board for most of this round stuff. Some people use rounded boards but I find the edge works just as well when you get the hang of it.

This is a good board to use for 90% of the flatter work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/17-inch-auto-...ander-1727.html

They use to carry a long yellow sanding block that was flexible.. sadly they dont anymore.

This kit looks pretty good..
http://www.amazon.com/Style-Line-Automotiv...s=sanding+block

Tic-Tac-Toe...drove the car 3 days in a row!

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Werks Reunion today. Would have preferred a group drive on backroad somewhere rather than hanging around all day. Awesome cars but too much water cooled. Snuck into the end of The Quail Gathering today as well. Lots of ultra cool cars etc, but I wiould never buy a ridiculously priced ticket for it. Free was good for me today.

Driving back into downtown Carmel I get a nice car from a guy walking into the main downtown area. That guy was Patrick Long. I pulled over and Nolan got another selfie taken. Nolan once again was stoked.

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We've seen lots of encounters with Mr. Long from members on the World lately- he must be a helluva nice guy and LOVE 914s!

More grease-monkey stuff Friday evening. I have to wait until the shop cools off else I just cook myself to death, so don't get in a full day's work

De-greased a little more on my wife's 1.7L, the 1~2 side. I like motors to be somewhat clean before I take 'em apart and as you can see, this motor was definitely GREASY!

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This is where I left off. Still have the front end and bottom to clean up.

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Then went back to work on the 912 motor. Greased the valve cover gasket

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and buttoned up the 1~2 side ...

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Then I moved over to the 3~4 side and started to remove the intake manifold. The nuts were easy, but it felt like the middle bolt was going to break off, so I saturated the shank with PB and let it sit for a while. Finally got it out and the threads looked galled. Chased the threaded holes in both heads and will buy new bolts for both sides.

Removed the rocker arm assembly and push rods - no issues, except there were (7) wave washers missing, just like the other side I started to remove the head nuts and ran into another problem. The Allen socket bit won't catch two of the top-side nuts. How the PO got them on this far is anyone's guess. They are screwed down so far the ends of the studs are only a 1/4" in. I'll bet the PO installed the wrong length studs when I get the heads off to check it all out

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I guess I can try grinding the tip of the bit to square it off, but I doubt even that will do the trick. I may need to chisel them off

More in next post ...

This one will be the easier of the two and I already pounded some grooves in the nut ... it's soaking in PB right now too.

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The other one is going to be tougher because it's recessed. I may need to drill some holes in the nut on each side of the stud, then carefully chisel it apart ...

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... hoping I don't bugger the stud threads in the process


At this point, I can almost guarantee the PO didn't install washers under these nuts too


More to come on Saturday ...